If you want to move up in the splitter world

What price range or what splitter do you think is required to make a significant 'enough' advancement in your output or efficiency versus a 'traditional' type splitter such as what I have -- County Line 25 ton single wedge, $1,000. Mixed hardwoods including a lot of oak. When I look at 'better' splitters, sticker shock kicks in but that aside, it is what it is, what do you think? I do realize that a quality splitter would last for a very long time, even the rest of your life for many of us?

 

I have a hand me down from my dad that he bought in the 70's, Hydraulic, 10 second cycle time. I bought a super split about 5 years ago, wish I bought one sooner. I still have the Hydro to bust up bigger rounds/nasty crotches. When it comes to straight stuff the SS really shines.

 

Faster cycle time is the most important feature imo.
Ability to split with a 4-6 way wedge would make a difference.
Auto return would improve efficiency
Log lift
The cycle times on Eastonmades is impressive. The speed at which their cylinders retract is incredible. They use big rod’s and must have dump valves.

 

I used a kinetic splitter once. It takes a crew to keep up to it. You can split a cord in 20 mintes with 4 guys. If you work alone like i do, there's practically no time savings. (Most of your time is spent moving rounds to the splitter then splits away from the splitter.

 

I recently read someone talking about this... he said it was too fast! He kind of got stressed out using it because he tried to keep up with the splitter and it was just too much. Does that make sense?

As for Eastonmade mentioned above, I looked at those yesterday. I dunno what it would require to get what is wanted, but I was leaning toward it being in the $7k to $10k range. That's alot of money.

You could also have two splitters, one hydraulic like what I have and one of those kinetic splitters. How much do you think a good kinetic splitter costs? Aren't they $3k or more? Point being, on easy splitting wood, you could use the kinetic. I often split for short runs... say, 45 minutes. This is with the processing area at my house and I can just go split awhile whenever. If it's at my land, it would be longer sessions. I also sometimes have a helper.

 

Bill, I have been considering this very thing lately. I currently have a 35 ton Dirty Hand Tools unit (now out of business) that I bought about 3 years back. I was thinking about selling it and going with an American made unit. Swisher makes a sweet looking commercial rated 34 ton unit with a Kawasaki electric start engine and 2 stage 22GPM pump. Iron and Oak make some very high quality units as well powered by Honda engines that ride on torsion axle suspension if you road tow often. Sticker shock is brutal though... I'm thinking I could about get my money back as I got a very good deal on it and put that towards a new unit. I'm just not sure if I will notice the difference or get any more longevity out of it...

 

How many cords do you process a year? What size wood do you typically deal with? I agree a kinetic splitter would be the cheapest way to significantly upgrade. Supersplit are the original and in most people’s opinion the best kinetic on the market. A standard gas J model is about $2500, and a production table another $150-$200. Buying it without also buying the production table is like buying a canoe with no paddles. Unless you plan to make your own table which is certainly doable. They are fast, but you have to think about your process and improve it. Have all your logs bucked and in a stacked row then park your splitter next to that row and split directly into a large wagon or trailer, or onto a conveyor. I can rotate my body while my feet don’t move, grab a piece and be back to splitting in 2-3 seconds. If you’re walking 30 ft with one piece of wood it’s not the splitter that’s the problem. I can do a cord in under an hour by myself easily with the SS. It’s all about time management and being efficient.

 

Check out Wolfe Ridge Splitters. They have a nice unit for about $55-5800...
But it's cycle time is 10 secs, just like the County Line 30 ton we have.

 

For me the biggest time saver is the log lift. I've got a Rugged Split 37 ton with lift & 4 way wedge. It's the lower end of the commercial type splitters. We made a cord with two of us yesterday in about an hour & a half. This was 32" Red Oak rounds so really heavy stuff.

 

Do the kinetic splitters split more difficult splitting wood alright?

 

Here’s a good head to head between Eastonmade’s cheapest hydraulic (Ultra, $4k) and a Super Split kinetic.

Ultra wins hands down but he really gives a nice shout out to Super Split, saying it’s the only one worth buying and they have great customer service

this guy’s accent is so hardcore Canadian

 

For me, a kinetic would be a step up. I typically stack my rounds and noodled chunks up high so I don’t need to lift from the ground, so I can feed the splitter at a pretty good clip.

 

Thanks for posting that. My first reaction was that there's no way my back could take being bent over like that using the kinetic splitter. But reading the youtube comments, people said newer model Supersplit sit taller, so, that's good. My other concern is a kinetic splitter handling more gnarly wood and comments echoed that concern.

 

I've seen some great buys on 25 to 35 ton splitters at Lowes and at the local farm supply store. Lowes had a 35 ton for $1,200, but I don't know how well it was made. The tag on the splitter claimed it normally sold for $3,000+, but I don't know if that was truthful.

As far as the high cost of kinetic splitters, I made this one, and have less than $300 in it, not including the military surplus motor which I already had.
It works great as a small splitter. I can't split big, gnarly rounds, although up to 9" gnarly rounds are OK, if the gnarly stuff is only on one end of the log.
Keeping up with it is not a problem for me, as I take my time, and I didn't make it to automatically retract the ram, so I have to pull it back every time. Doesn't bother me, and for sure it's faster than splitting by hand, which is the way I used to do it. If the ram gets stopped, the rotating pinion gear kicks the ram upward. I think that's because I used 20 degree pressure angle gears. In use, I don't have to bend over, and I"m 6'2".

 

Are you splitting to sell?
If not, why do you think the countyline won't last you a lifetime?
If I was to step up, I'd be getting a splitter that cuts splits and send it down a chute. Screw just a log lift. Pick that pole up cut it to length and split them all in 1.
Everything else is a waste of time.

 

That takes away the best part of firewood'n, running ported chainsaws.

 

Unless you sell firewood your splitter should be fine.

 

some custom designs still use a chainsaw.

 

Another option is upgrading your current machine. Bigger motor, bigger pump and a cylinder that can accept increased gpm.