Hello, Countyline 25 ton splitter leaking where the rod comes out of the cylinder. Has been fifty years since I have dealt with hydraulics but I was able to get into it, removed the retaining ring and was able to remove the gland that holds the seals. Actually, once I got the retaining ring off, I applied a little pressure at low throttle to the ram and it shot the gland out, lol. I notice that there is a hole at the edge of the gland like a screw should be there. But there is no screw. If you know that there should be a screw there, advise, lol. Also, do you think there another gland deeper inside there that holds more seals? Seems I have seen that on cylinders but I have no idea if there is another in this one. I was thinking that while I am in here that I should replace any seal? Splitter is ten years old. I note that the hydraulic oil was milky as could be, cream colored. A water emulsion, I assume. Wonder how that happened. Maybe rain? But I split vertically, so, doesn't seem that rain could have gotten in there. Or maybe condensation within the reservoir? I am going to take this gland that contains the seals to a hydraulic shop and match them up. Have ya priced hydraulic oil lately? Yikes. But, beats buying a new splitter! EDIT: I found the manual and parts diagram but it doesn't show a diagram of the innards of the hydraulic cylinder. Also, I am going to drain all that milky oil, I can't see what is in deep, so, I guess that should allow me to see.
Milky oil is likely years of condensation, especially if you store it outside at all. If you run it long enough to get the oil hot, then that will burn a lot of it off, but sounds like it just needs changed now. If you have the gland out, that's all the seals there are externally...the only other thing that can be changed would be seals on the piston. The last one I did I didn't mess with the piston since it still had great power. My local hydraulic shop was able to match everything up and I think it was $30+40 for everything. It was an easy rebuild, I did not pull the ram, and even left the cylinder mounted to the splitter...lost maybe a pint of oil at most. I did the same thing and used the hydraulic pressure to careully push the gland out. I have to laugh at these guys on YouTube trying to pull the ram out chained to a tree/4 wheeler/etc. just jerking on it, or using a sledge hammer Work smart, not hard...
Sounds like replacing some front wheel bearings on a 2500 and up Dodge. Oops, I mean Ram. Can use the power steering once down to getting em outta the knuckle.
Anyone know... I have all the old oil out of the cylinder, which is still on the splitter. I will just take the gland to the shop for seal matchup. Will remove the filter and drain all the old oil. When I fill with new oil, do I just fill the reservoir and that's it? Any need to prime the cylinder with new oil? I will prime the filter. And I guess I'm supposed to have the ram unextended when I put the new oil in?
It doesn't really matter, that is a PD pump so it'll self prime...just fill the reservoir, start the engine and cycle the cylinder, shut it off and refill the reservoir right away, then do it all again. The oil level will drop a good amount that first round, but probably not much after that
Self bleeding is the term you are looking for. The cylinder should be in the horizontal position. Cycle it one direction, to the end of the stroke, and check oil level, adding as needed Now go the other way and check the level, again, adding as needed. Now cycle back and forth several times, always full strokes. Check the oil level and add is needed. Done. This way you never run low on oil. pictures of the hole you are talking about would be great. There are many different types and styles of gland and it would be foolish of us to assume it was any particular one. sounds like you have it pretty much under control.
Oh, I forgot about the hole question...if it's about a 1/4" hole right out by the edge, there's supposed to be a bolt with a fender washer in there...it's meant to keep the gland pulled out against the snap ring...not real yet important once things are full of oil IMO, unless you transported it in a vertical position maybe?
That hole I spoke of, I have now found a video and I saw the same hole on his identical splitter. It appears to be a tad over 1/8" diameter. So, since I saw it on his, I suppose it's just a hole, lol. It's right next to the edge of the gland. I am going to Tractor Supply today and when there will look at one of these, they still sell this splitter, maybe they are still the same. Here is a pic below. In this pic, it appears larger for some reason, some kind of optical illusion. EDIT: In the video I mention below, in the comments, somebody asked him about this very hole. His reply: "I know exactly the hole you’re talking about. It doesn’t go through the plate and I’ll be honest I have no idea what the hole is for. My guess would be something connected to the manufacturing of the plate." EDIT 2: The video I watched, I am watching again (linked below in case anyone needs to see this in the future), it is this same Countyline splitter and his DID have another gland deep inside (or similar to a gland), on the other end of the rod. At the very end of the rod (the end deep inside the cylinder) there was a large nut and then something that looks like the gland that is snugged up next to that nut. If that contains seals, wondering if I should also replace them. I will watch again to make sure. EDIT 3: And another edit! I found this comment on youtube by a poster on this linked video, concerning the mystery hole, and also the piston on the end of the rod. In this thread I refer to it as appearing to be another gland? But it's the piston? Okay, makes sense. So here are the comments: "I have been watching some other videos on how to replace the seals and one of them showed that the end piece (piston?) that you tried so hard to get off of the rod was actually welded on to the rod, even though it still had the big nut on it. Maybe yours was welded on too? Also, the threaded hole on the outside (front face) of the front part of the rod is supposed to have a screw in it, with a large fender washer under the screw. The washer overlaps over the end of the big 4" cylinder a slight amount. That is there to keep the front part of the metal piston from going into the cylinder. The cylinder (I guess piston is correct word?) on my splitter does indeed have that screw and fender washer on it." (Yawner's note: I think he means gland not cylinder.) So, now I am again concerned about that hole that has no screw and fender washer. How could I figure out what to buy, and where! (link: )
I don't see how it matters when the system is dry...fill the reservoir and start the pump, cycle the cylinder, shut it off and top off the oil...rinse n repeat...no?
I think he is talking about topping off the oil. The cylinder should be retracted when checking the level.
Two way cyl, shouldn't matter...well, I guess the ram does take up some room, so you are right...and it would especially so on a model with a large diameter ram, like a good commercial model.
Someone borrowed my speeco and damaged the filter. New filter and over filed. The threaded vent plug blew out and was never found.
I would expect the tank to expand/rupture before blowing the plug out. My guess would be the plug wasn’t in more than maybe 1 thread.
The tank is the axle and is 4"x6"x1/4" tube. The plug is straight thread hollow and aluminum with around a .2" side hole. The filter is exposed like the balls on a dog. Been doing something about it for 40ish years!
