Are these saws known for being weak oilers? Mine seems to dribble an adequate amount out the port without the bar, but once the bar is on, it's seriously weak. I drilled the oiler holes out some and it seemed to improve, but it won't sling oil. The guide links/drivers and side of rivets appear to be getting oil, and you can see oil on the bar rails in the sunlight, but why so weak? Is this just the way it is? how much is good enough lol don't want to drive myself crazy.
It's not supposed to pump any oil at idle, so raise the revs to a point the clutch engages (and would be spinning the chain if it were there) and see how much comes out. Keep the trigger at a steady point. I have my dad's 435 after getting him the Jonsered w/ decomp. I could make a comparo vid if desired. One thing I noticed and please don't call me crazy, for chits and giggles, buy yourself a bottle of Husky brand bar oil and test it out. YOu may find the tackier oil keeps your chain a bit wetter w/ lube. They are generally stingy but you should be able to sling some if you high rev the saw with b/c on. If you wanna dig deeper to check the worm gear that drives the pump, check this out:
I'm going to have to google that, as this one clearly seeps oil while idling. If/when you have a moment a comparison vid would be appreciated though. What bar do you have on? My bar is a Husky X-force 18" .325 .50 bar#582075372 I did put the bar back on and tested it since I enlarged the oiler holes. It does in fact get oil into the channel, but again, no flinging oil with pizz revving. It's like the drive links and rivets have an oil film, and oil will appear on the top of the rails, but no flingy. I was annoyed so I made 6 hard passes in a 14" diameter pine, and the bar didn't warm up (which surprised me). Not sure what this really tells me, but if it wasn't oiling enough there should be heat. I think.
Not 100% on the bar, it is .325 50, I think 16". We swapped it over to the Jonsey. When I get a moment, I'll fire it up and show you what I have.
So I stand corrected. The saw will oil at idle w/o a bar and chain. There is no resistance on the clutch drum and it spins, which in turn is what drives the oil pump. Sorry for the confusion. Here’s where dads is at: Give yours some longer/higher rpm revs and see if it increases like my video shows. Don't judge by the idle output. That being said, with the amount of oil coming out of yours, I'd say the pump is in fact working. Two things you can do is, clean and dry your bar really well. Then dab oil on the rubber output slot on the saw. Then "stamp" the bar up against that rubber and view the mark left to make sure it's aligning with your hole properly. Like this: Hopefully you can see in the glare where mine ended up. If necessary, enlarge hole in the direction needed to get the most oil in it. Second, drain your oil tank really well. Then look at the oil pick up screen. If it's plugged, that could restrict how much the pump is getting. In this case, dump some mix gas in there and swish it around a couple times, repeat, then try with oil again. Also, have you cleaned out your bar groove lately?
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It appears at idle both saws dribble the same, but yours seems more responsive/more oil blubbering under throttle. I might need to wear my reading glasses while I check it though but yours is very obvious when you zoom zoom. Maybe there is crud blocking up my filter. I did hog out my oiler holes a lot and it does seem to oil well, in the sense of the inner rails of the bar (top of bar and underside) and the top of the rail (where the chain rides). I always clean the bar, a piece of thin cardboard clears any crud inside. As for alignment, I checked with bar placement and measurements with the micrometer, hence the blue marker all over the plate. She's lined up good. I'll pursue this a bit further, but at least I shouldn't burn up my bar in the meantime lol
If you have oil on the drive links and rails, that's all that matters. Try doing that^^ when you get a chance. Maybe it will clean the oil pick-up screen a little. Here's another vid of a 435 showing normal sling.
That's kind of my thoughts on it, even though it's not slinging oil, it must be meeting the requirements somewhat. If I can pull 4-5 hard passes quickly and not have heat, what are another 5 passes going to do? But yeah, I'll swish the oil tank. I always blend in filtered canola oil with my mix, so maybe it's causing grief.
And more of the story comes out. It's hard to compare apples to oranges. Yea their both round...... just like all bar oil is oily. Unless you're comparing the same brand and weight of oil in similar saws, ain't much there to compare. Have you tried using a lighter or "winter" bar and chain oil? Maybe a higher quality oil that has a higher "tack" would be better? I don't think there's even a mention of what bar and chain oil brand you use. Here's one I've used that sticks very well to the bar.
Not sure why you think this is some kind of "Aha! Gotcha!" moment. I've been using canola oil blended into bar oil since at least 2016 with no problems at all, in 2 other saws as well. Thicker mix needs more oil or bar oil, thinner needs more canola. In colder weather, throw in some atf and even a few caps of diesel. If the oil and the gas go down at the same rate, it's good enough. There is really only one rule with canola oil. Before putting a saw away, run a tank of normal bar oil through it, or drain it and add diesel, and let that blubber through. Canola oil does oxidize in the air eventually, leaving a sticky tacky crud on chainsaw parts. Solution? Clean it before letting it sit for 6 months. But back to chainsaws and how they oil. As mentioned, my blend works fine it 2 other saws, but not this one. like this. I'm looking after 3 of your dogs, and I feed them all steak for supper. Two of them are happy, but the 3rd one throws up. My first thought is, what's wrong with the dog, not what's wrong with the food. Because the kicker is... This is how the saw came to me. I just didn't know if it was stingy by design or not.
It's more of an inside mechanic joke. The customer doesn't usually give the whole story or extent of the situation the first time you talk to them. Happened all the time when i was a car dealership mechanic. Unfortunately the non adjustable oilers suck. Only way to adjust them is with the oil viscosity which you seem to have a good understanding of. Have you tried a bar oil mix that is super runny for this particular saw? My 445 likes a runnier bar oil. Its a non adjustable oiler.
In my experience, and the reason I suggested running a really thick bar oil.. It sticks to the chain more than your canola mix. You will see a "wetter" chain. This stuff sticks so well I can turn my pump down from max.
That's how the stuff is that i posted. Used it on my 395 with 36" bar and noticed oil piling up on the bottom of the clutch cover. After looking closely while cutting, the bar oil was slinging off the chain and bar as the chain was making the turn back to the top. Needless to say.... i turned the oiler down.
I can't recall if I've run that b&c oil thu my 445. So i can't comment how it works on non adjustable oiler type saws.
This would be the typical bar oil I would mix my blend with around here. General PDP Template I suppose canola oil isn't for everyone, but it works well for me. The brand above has a spring/fall and a winter version which is thinner. I had another jug from a grocery store(which was kind of weird actually) that was thinner yet. I actually liked that one better for mixing. I wish adjustable oilers were standard on all saws lol
