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Husqvarna 141 carb settings?

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by basod, Jul 7, 2014.

  1. basod

    basod

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    So my neighbor that gave me the MS170 a few months ago has a 141 that won't run past 1/2 throttle, fuel lines look good, he only runs the canned pre-mix.
    I backed the H&L screws out with my custom crimp connector on a screwdriver tool blew them out and got it set to at least idle smooth.
    Pulled muffler and it appeared to have a stuff bit of crud on the screen, Not sure if the gasket was in the right place either behind the heat shield or in between heat shield & muffler?

    It could be more than the adjustments as my searches have yielded some crank seal issues.
     
  2. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Where did you set the H and L screws?

    One turn out is a good starting point. Then adjust from there as necessary. If it's idling o.k., it seems the H only needs fine tuned.

    Does it Wander at WOT? (Will it hold WOT?)
     
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  3. JRSDWS

    JRSDWS

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    The typical starting point should be 1 to 1-1/4 turns out on both H & L . Start there and fine tune.
     
  4. basod

    basod

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    It won't go past 1/2 throttle if you gingerly bring it there. Punch it and it dies.
    I just pulled the carb a few minutes ago and found some strange orange (almost looked liked grease) in the float bowl. The carb will be getting a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner tomorrow;)
    Appears someone has been into before found some leftover gasket on the rear carb face that wasn't transferred from the gasket that is on it.

    I was hoping turning a couple screws may fix this - it never works out that way
     
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  5. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    I find the best settings on a 141 to be the dumpster.
     
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  6. KilliansRedLeo

    KilliansRedLeo

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    Yeah, right next to the Stihl 192T! I defy you to replace the oil pump in a 192T without tearing the ENTIRE saw apart!
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
  7. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Now c'mon..... They weren't all THAT bad....

    If you could get them tuned correctly (out of the box settings were awful) and keep the muffler from falling off it they actually had some snot for their size.

    I have vague memories of replacing those mufflers with non-cat versions? Anybody remember if the 141 was a cat muffler or am I getting it confused with the 142? (Which had similar out of the box issues.....)
     
  8. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    Pretty sure the 141 was cat and not very easily gutted (crimped halves on the muffler.)

    Guy has had one on CL for $140 for close to a year. When 350s sell for $200 regularly can't see that one going anywhere.
     
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  9. basod

    basod

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    :rofl: :lol:
    Not mine though. My neighbor has more saws than I do - chit he just went and bought a brand new MS192T to replace the MS170 he gave me, he has a 3 saw plan this is the mid pack. He has a husky Rancher as his "big" saw.
    He has resolved himself to all Stihls for future purchases:whistle: not sure if I had anything to do with it though
     
  10. basod

    basod

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    Supposedly the Cat mufflers will have "CAT" stamped on them, and yes the muffler bolts were loose. I didn't notice it on this one but the muffler was heavy for it's size and the port is ~3/8"...giving your 454 a run for it's money:D
     
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  11. basod

    basod

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    So no dice on the carb cleaning and tuning. This saw is a 2005 model FWIW
    It still dies on quick throttle or after slowly bringing it to ~1/2 throttle, tried it without the air filter as well and same deal.
    I'm guessing blocked muffler.... I may try to separate the crimped flanges before buying one and opening the port up a bit.
     
  12. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    Replacing the fuel line was fun on this saw. Have you looked in the fuel line? Your won't rev up/ die scenario could likely be an air leak and fuel line should be high on your list of culprits.

    Regarding the muffler, after doing this once I would never try to uncrimp/ recrimp. I have no welding skills so that is what I did, and to call it a hack would be unfair to hackers. Try to just blow a hole through the muffler and then add a deflector if this helps after the fact. Saves you a lot of time and aggravation.
     
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  13. basod

    basod

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    The fuel line looks new - my neighbor had dropped it off at a small engine shop for service and the guy never got around to for 2 months. SER guy told my neighbor there was no way I could tune this carb as it required a special tool - yeah like a crimp connector on a screwdriver:rofl: :lol: I'd buy the special tool but I don't own any equipment that takes it just the occasional saw/trimmer for a friend
    I thought the line had been replaced but maybe not or it's possibly kinked, I haven't gone that deep yet but will check before muffler surgery - thanks for the tips on that:yes:
     
  14. Eccentric

    Eccentric

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    Might as well replace the impulse grommet and intake boot while you're at it. They're a weak point on this series (and the 50-55 series). Sounds to me like it has an air leak. Messing around with needle settings when you've got an air leak is pointless....
     
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