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Help design my evaporator for maple syrup making next season!

Discussion in 'Hobbies and Interests' started by bocefus78, Jun 9, 2014.

  1. bocefus78

    bocefus78

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    My neighbors gave me a giant steam kettle for free-at least thats what I THINK its called after some googling.
    It's a Hobart brand and is a seriously heavy duty stainless steel. I think its 30 gallons minimum. It probably weighs 200lbs at least. I will insert a pic of what it kind of looks like to give you an idea.

    [​IMG]

    Here's the thing....Its only part of it. No legs or stand at all.
    It also has a draw off drain on it but it is located on the bottom.

    So here's my thoughts so far...help me out.

    1. Is the drain on the bottom going to eventually leak or break from the heat source (fire or propane) being placed under the kettle?

    2. I need legs or a stand and I do not weld. I have a friend who does, but I'm not sure if he (his machine) can weld stainless. Doesn't it take a special one?

    I am currently thinking a metal 55gal drum type stand where I can put the fire (cheaper than propane) under it. My issue would be a chimney system coming from the side of the barrel. How do you connect a 6" pipe to a cylinder instead of a flat wall?

    3. If I did use propane (turkey fryer), How long do you think it would take to bring to a boil? Calling all you math people who can figure BTUs etc. Sap would be 40 degrees to start. How much propane would this thing burn in say 10 hours?

    Thanks in advance. This is just the beginning stages of planning so I am basically still gathering info. I would like to do fire for its cost, but the time savings of instant heat from propane and the increased production of the large pan, have me thinking propane may be better.
     
  2. badbob

    badbob

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    Don't know what you are building,but here are some thoughts.1 Going to have to post some pictures of the drain,and what is the drain made from.2Easier to slap a stand together that is not welded to the pot.For flue look at the cheap barrel stove kits,come with a curved cast piece to hook up to 6" stove pipe.3Will use a lot of gas at start up.Cooking outside in something that big is much worse if there is a good wind,takes the heat right out of the metal fast.
     
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  3. Scotty Overkill

    Scotty Overkill Administrator

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    I believe that is a jacketed kettle.....which means it's a sealed "double pan", if I'm not mistaken. You won't get the ideal efficiency out of that setup without modifying it ...
     
  4. lukem

    lukem

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    If that is a "jacketed" kettle, you could turn it into a double boiler type setup by filling the void between the inner and outer jacket with water. Would probably be less efficient, but prevent scorching the sap.
     
  5. DaveGunter

    DaveGunter

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    I used a kettle like that for years in a commercial kitchen. They are usually either used with a high pressure steam source or there is a heating element inside the jacket. The idea is there is a large heating surface area surrounding the bottom half of the kettle, makes for efficient and even boiling or cooking but not so good for an evaporator...not enough liquid surface area.
     
  6. bocefus78

    bocefus78

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    Crap! And here I thought I had something useful. What's stainless scrap worth now?
     
  7. Scotty Overkill

    Scotty Overkill Administrator

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    Oh it can be modified, maybe by taking then outer jacket off with a grinder and a cutoff wheel.....but I'd either buy or fabricate a long flat shallow stainless steel pan like the one I have if you are going to get serious about making syrup....
     
  8. bocefus78

    bocefus78

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    That's the thing. I'm not looking to make a chit load and get all serious. I've got less than $200 in everything now. I'd like to keep it there and just make it easier and more productive than using my cheapo steam table pan. I'm good with a grinder and have access to a plasma. ..now you got me thinking :Do_O