Het everyone, New here but not to pellet stoves. I am pretty sure the only way this happens is if the control board is toast... Igniter never gets hot and pellets just keep feeding into the burnpot and spill over into the ash pan. I pulled the igniter and applied 110v to the leads.. it did work. Combustion blower is working and it has been scraped and cleaned out all the way out the pipe and up. Door and ash pan gaskets are good. Fresh air vent is open and clear. Any suggestions beyond control board appreciated Thanks RickF
Has the igniter cradle been removed , if so was it replaced the correct way? By the way, Welcome to FHC
I've heard of it been installed incorrectly and the result is not igniting the pellets quick enough before the spill over of pellets. Do you have a GOOD surge protector for the stove?
Yes and I just found out why it isn't getting turned on. After I removed it to test it, the connection on one lead pulled off when I pulled the wires from the back.. boo! Now the only thing I think I can do to get at that connector is pull the burnpot. Have to find a new gasket somewhere tomorrow. So is it normal to just keep feeding pellets on the p43. I thought if the exhaust temp didn't rise to a certain level an error would blink out a code and the auger would stop. Not in my case anyway. Thanks everyone RickF
I'm sure the feeding will keep going until a time-out occurs which is past the burnpot spill over( I could be wrong) Do you have a GOOD surge protector, asking 'cause the board can be also be bad. A clean ESP suggested above could have a impact too! I think you can pull the wire out the back and resolder the connection and push it back in.
Agreed, it will feed until a pre-configured timeout occurs. Wouldn’t be surprised if some pellets spill over the edge before the timeout occurs. Based on your description, I’m having a hard time visualizing the current state of those igniter wires. Can you take the burn pot cleanout cover off and shine a flashlight in there and possibly use an extra long pair of tweezers to fish around and grab that wire and pull it back up to the front of the burn pot chamber? Maybe remove the igniter and cradle if it helps clear the view and make room to get the tweezers back in there? I’m not sure how the wires could be pulled back so far, because they are supposed to secured at the back of the stove with RTV sealant which should stop them slipping or moving around, know what I mean? Again, sorry if I’m just not understanding what you said about them. Hoping you can pull this off without pulling the whole burn pot assembly off.
My ongoing p43 no light issue cont. The ignitor never gets hot but it's new. The one I replace suddenly stopped getting hot but it tests out ok... The wires on the installed ignitor have power to them even when the panel knob is set to off. This can't be correct. It also has power to it when the stove is on. Can't find my meter so I'm heading out to grab a cheap 9ne off harbor freight.
You should post in the previous started thread to avoid confusion, maybe the Mod could add it to it Sounds like your board is defective
Yup, that's it! Couldn't remember the culprit's name This is what you need to protect your electronics on the stove;
Even better, the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD that was on sale for $129 on Black Friday. Battery backup and surge protection in one unit. May not be on sale for the good price anymore though...
itll feed on and off for 40 minutes or so, then give up, giving you a 6 blink error on the status light. Do you have any blinking status light errors? If so, which is it? As for the lead that disconned....you dont need to pull the burnpot....just go to the rear and push the banana yellow wire and the baby blue wire ibnto the stove....youll see where they go through a small plug.....just cut the zip ties to give yourself extra wire.....pretty easy. When done, make sure to pull them back before ignition, or you will burn the plastic insulation off Its a great idea to use a protector, but likely isn't what fried the OP's triac. Most likely either an igniter wire frayed and shorted, which would fry the igniter in the current on position, or, when replacing the igniter, a wire got pinched and shorted out. Unlikely a surge would hit at the same time as the stove is igniting. So, OP needs to find the short first, fix that (and might have been done by replacing the igniter), then either replace the CB, or identify and have the bad triac replaced , which you can do yourself if you can identify,test,remove, and replace components on the CB. When our techs find these, we replace the board. We simply dont have the time and expertise to repair circuitboards. Good luck!
