In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Getting after the Pile

Discussion in 'The Sawyer Room' started by gwoods71, Feb 20, 2023.

  1. gwoods71

    gwoods71

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    It has been almost (maybe more) than a year since I cut. Some of my mill fodder may be fertilizer soon, so after fixing a (design) issue with the drive on the mill carriage, a tractor being torn apart, raising 3 little ones, working 55-60 hours a week, etc. I finally was able to get set back up this weekend.
    First on the mill were (2) white pine logs that I have had for around 4 years, the outside was getting punky, but still some nice looking lumber inside. Being old as they are I wouldn't use for anything structural so I just cut into 3/4 paneling.

    I will hopefully use it to finish the inside of my woodshop, but I keep selling it because...money.
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  2. gwoods71

    gwoods71

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    I don't have the loader back on my tractor yet, but I did build the forks to fit the 3pt.

    However they do not lift high enough to load the mill, ground is too froze to dig the mill in, so what am I to do?

    Scrap slab for a Mickey Mouse loading dock to get the tractor taller, I am not proud, but with the rear dif locked, it worked (kinda)
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  3. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Hey- it worked, so it couldn’t have been a bad idea!!!
     
  4. FarmerJ

    FarmerJ

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  5. JB Sawman

    JB Sawman

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    Darn slabs always come in handy for something !!:rofl: :lol::thumbs: sure beats trying to winch up a ramp , Looks like some fresh paint on the tractor Looks good
     
  6. gwoods71

    gwoods71

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    Yea, clutch was stuck to the flywheel, so I had to split it, while I had it apart I was able to get the chassis painted, but didn't get the wheels and tinwork done before cold weather hit (my shop is not heated).
     
  7. gwoods71

    gwoods71

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    The big pile in the pictures behind the mill is all red oak, I started into it last night. Just cutting 1" boards for a shed floor, the last board on the bottom CAN be cut at 1" but I like to leave it at 1.5" to ease the "Pucker factor" running a blade that close to the deck. The thicker pieces are going to be decking for my 6x10 trailer.

    Sharpened a handful of blades before work this morning, found a couple that cut some nails on the last use.
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  8. JB Sawman

    JB Sawman

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    I send my blades out I just do not have the time to sharpen them or the floor space to put the sharpener lucky you could save the blades usually if I hit metal it rips the teeth off :headbang:
     
    buZZsaw BRAD, Woodsnwoods and FarmerJ like this.
  9. gwoods71

    gwoods71

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    The sharpener was included when we bought the mill (used).

    Generally all new blades I buy semi-local (Paris All-Sharp) and I send them back there to be sharpened until they will not accept them, usually rust, bent/broken teeth, worn out etc.

    Then I sharpen until it breaks or just wont hold an edge and then I scrap them.
     
  10. JB Sawman

    JB Sawman

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    Ok I get the blades direct from woodmizer they are about a 1.5 hr drive from me in Pa . I also use their resharp service they automatically replace any that are damaged or un sharpenable so I always get a full box back they pay shipping one way
     
  11. gwoods71

    gwoods71

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    Was able to get a few hours on the mill yesterday. Ran 3 small (14") red oak for some flooring and trailer decking, and 4 pine cants into siding for my wife's potting shed project in the DIY Forum.
     

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  12. gwoods71

    gwoods71

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    So much of this oak has great character, I hate to turn it into firewood, but I will never use all the lumber, and I am not sure there is much market for it.
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