I saw a thread on here that talked about the baffling that sits above the rods to displace heat instead of having it go straight up. This was stove focused but now I want to ask about versatility The problems were that people dented them and some warped. The replacements are kinda expensive for mine online. 90 bucks. I also saw you can buy a bulk order of it and just likely measure your current one for size and replace. Expensive but an option. Other person said he omitted the board and just found a plate of metal and that seemed to work well. I don't want to do this if its not wise or worse dangerous. Not condoning myself to make an alteration to the stove itself but is there a way around this as another piece of material can be used? How long do these really last in the first place until you replace them if you don't beat them to death? Im glad I noticed this now because it seems like this becomes a fragile piece or in my case pieces.
My stove is a Timberwolf 2200. Its not set up right now but I did some research after doing some manual reading on it. I was sick this week out of work so i kinda put my thoughts on the fiberboard wondering about another option if replacements were needed. As BrianK said(oops I posted twice) there is nothing that works like Ceramic Fiberboard. Not saying the metal plate was dangerous per se, just didn't want to put a piece of metal that was going to get hotter than it needed to be and cause my stove to warp. Different stoves for different reasons so If I have to I'll find some more fiberboard to stay on the err of caution. It sits above metal bars and then causes the secondary burns to initiate.
The metal bars are stainless steel tubes, with holes drilled along in a row, where the secondary air is introduced. The heated offgassing is being held longer in the stove which mixes with the air, which ignites. If you've never seen it in action, just wait......it's mesmerizing. Page 7 of your manual has a nice illustration, and explanation. I don't remember if you've said, but is this your first EPA stove?
My ONLY EPA stove. I've mainly built fires in fireplaces and pits. The only woodstove I actually did anything with was my aunts and her Fisher and some other one before she moved out of the old house. It was interesting but not always broken down for me. I guess I wanted a tutor about fires since the woodstove on those you cant see the fire rolling but I'll be able to now. Thanks for pointing out the page. Now I have a question, there was a video on youtube you can type in my stove and the 2200. It says its fully shut down and the secondaries are just like wow. You wanna just shut the tv off at that point. The video probably didn't do it much justice. But what does he mean fully shut down??
Close down the primary air control, which on yours is that lever above the door. I very rarely completely close the primary. Someone here can probably answer just about any question you have re:burning a wood stove. Being able to see what's going on in the stove isn't absolutely mandatory, but it sure is nice to watch and does help you "read" the fire.
I am only aware of one member here who has a Napoleon stove but not a Timberwolf. I guess Im a one man show but its a review I could put some decent time into developing. Talk about a winter year of watching a brand new stove do its thing. Im eager as much as they get. Im already mesmerized by pit fires. I make mine nice and big, probably too big for the average folks who have a fire once in a blue moon. Sometimes i'll have 5 a week, just depends on the weather. New stove makes this me going out and having a fire better because I'll just be knowing that I can burn for heat in two modes.
The non-cats all pretty much work the same way. You can close that air control fully but due to EPA regulations, there is still air being admitted to the stove for clean combustion. See, you can run a non-cat hot and hotter but can't really run it slow due to all of these extra air holes. That's fine. So fully shut down hopefully gives you enough control to be safe. My current NC30 can be easily snuffed if I fully close the draft control, my previous hearthstone heritage was run mostly at fully closed draft and still got plenty hot. Always great fireshows and clean glass from both of these stoves. Your fiberboard and tubes should last as long as the stove (forever) if you don't bang into them with anything. The biggest cause of replacing the boards is people hitting them. I broke the board in my heritage trying to stuff a little bit too much wood into the small firebox. Other folks have broken the boards with a chimney cleaning brush from above. Oops! You are in control of keeping the stove board from breaking.
Easier said than done. I don't use a poker in the stove anymore, because when trying to lift a piece of wood with the poker, it would sometimes slip and hit either the tubes or one of the boards. Not gooder. I've noticed some deterioration on the boards, but nothing so far that would require replacement. Another easy way to break the boards is to grab 'em by the corner and lift. Ask me how I know.......never mind, don't ask.
FatBoy85 check out this thread How to properly light an EPA Stove ! Like said The non-cats all pretty much work the same way
