We went and bought one and I did the first small/medium burn in the drive way for about 2-3 hours. A couple questions, keep in mind this is all done from a COLD start. 1] Dorlet Book calls for pipe thermometer to be 18 inches above the stove , I seen a couple in pictures with them around a foot from top of stove. So I want to know if I need to move mine down? first load of about 8 med. splits never got pipe above 300 but stove put out a sheet load of heat with maple. 2]This is how we started the fire , did as we always did except the by pass- By pass open -air full open then loaded stove with about 8 starter splits 1x1x8 , then loaded about 7-8 med splits [3x4], Had door cracked open for about 15-20 min as per book ,once it was going close door then by pass. Come back a few min. later and just smolder , open door and by pass again then once going again close door and by pass. When the load was about 1/2 burned up [ashes] I closed the air to about a 1/2 from being all the way in, stove pipe never above 300 and right now at 180. Am I waiting to long to close air or what do I need to do different?
What model did you get? If the Myriad isn't loaded most of the way we usually don't get high temps. When you closed the bypass it went to a smolder? That seems odd, maybe you didn't have enough of a draft with your makeshift install.
Are you still in the driveway with these temps or have you installed it yet. I did not do an outside burn on mine, so I can't help with driveway burn temps. Don't know if those temps would compare with installed on a flue.
Sounds really odd to me. 15-20 minutes with the door cracked and primary 1/2 open, then fire smolders, especially. I don't have as dry of wood as you have and that scenario seems strange. I do have good draft with about 27' of 8x8 clay tile flue. I would start a fire cold, but it is already too warm in here. When I start one I will check flue temps with the IR gun. Previously no problem getting single wall around 300 - 350 (about 12" above stove). You sure your magnetic thermometer is accurate? Are you talking single or double wall pipe temps above stove?
As far as where you place your thermometer, right now my stove top is at 460, my magnate thermometer setting at one foot on the SW pipe, is 160 checked with an IR, 18 inches above the stove top my pipe is 155, so take your pick , not a lot of difference
I never had a bypass on a stove but I am wondering why would you have the the door cracked with the bypass open, seems to me you would just be sucking cold air into there unnecessarily
Yes wood is dry, that I know. The door is cracked open as in book, By pass OPEN , primary ALL THE WAY OPEN yes then smolders after the door is closed and had to do this two times BUT never shut primary down at all until the load was 1/2 burned to ash. Because of pipe temps. Maybe need to get another one but just moved from one pipe to another. The draft I had was sucking my arm hair if you know what I mean as I was installing the new pipe , single wall. Maybe I need to get a IR to read stove top temps and not worry about pipe.
Just got the stove and it says in book to heat up pipe faster to get a better draw and to stop smoke from coming into room. The stove does put out a lot of heat .
I would go and get myself an IR because I have had magnetic thermometers that were a 120 degrees off brand new
If it wasn't 58 deg out and 76 deg inside, I would cold start my Myriad and record the times and temps. I'd like to know also if my memory is correct.
well it will take a little bit of time to figure out the best way to get the stove chooken I know with my stove with no bypass I can't have the door cracked too far or it just won't heat up, a quarter inch or less
I've never had the smoldering problem and it sounds like you're doing everything right. Did you happen to look at the primary and secondary air intake openings to make sure they weren't plugged? The only other thing I can think of is these warmer outdoor temps really do a number on my draft but I know you said yours was good when you did the install. As for pipe temps I've found my magnetic thermometer to not be all that accurate and we only use it as an educated guess of where to start closing her down.
I start my stove with the door open and the bypass open but not for long as the temp zoomies up in a hurry, I close the by pass first and then a few minutes later I close the door, my flue temps run up to about 45o on start up but settle in to about 300 when the stove is at 600 or so and 35o when stove is at 700.
Tiger, don't know if I can be much help but you never know. I have an eldorado by drolet, and just like Grizzly Adam mentioned in his post above, if the stove isn't loaded almost full, I don't get the high temps out of it. I also notice that it tends to be a bit fussy about the wood... which leads me to suspect that even though your wood is dry, perhaps you could get enough wood for a load to try and compare it to your own wood? You must have someone you know that burns also and explain the situation to them. Get it as dry as you possibly can for a comparative burn. Who knows, it might be worth it? Nothing to lose, right?
Dave DON'T take any thing the wrong way that I am about to say- there are a lot of burners here, that's what I call them, BUT 3 of them has outside burners and they burn it green. My aunt and her son burns to but I would not put it in this stove or the old one I just moved out. They both cut and burn the same year. They have had at least 3 chimney fires and no they will not listen to me. My aunt has a high dollar soap stone in her house and she says it stinks so they bought a boiler to burn their green wood. I would stack my wood against any ones wood. Soft woods are in racks [to your left <<<] no less than 2 years , ALL hard woods are in racks for no less than 4 years and after this summer I will be on a 5 year rotation with my hard wood, that is oaks, ash, hedge and so on. Some of my rounds may be here on pallets for a least a year before I get to them so that time don't count as far as drying. So As of the other night this I found out what you said. I do know now this stove needs for me to learn about it and how to use it. My last stove throw about 4 splits in, that's is all will fit, let it burn with air open all the way till pipe temp reaches 300-500 , close air down to almost closed and walk away. This one is a different animal and it needs to be tamed as much as I can.
If you have dry wood and a Not sure why that is, I can build a small fire and get high temps if I want to. How do you build a small fire?
