Double paddle combustion fan vs single paddle

Does anyone have any input on which works better, the single or double paddle exhaust blowers.

Thinking about changing the fan blade in the old Whit to a double paddle to get more draft at a lower motor speed

Any input would be way cool

 

Hi Snowy
The 5" double paddle impeller blades work great in a Whitfield but only fit the stoves that have a 7" mounting hub. For the Whit's that have a 6" mounting hub the ones that Dexter showed above will definitely work better! I have which ever one you want.

 

Coooool

My Adv 2 T has the 4-3/4 standard 12 paddle blade with the 5-3/4 back plate on the motor

After checking the voltage on the thing the other day, I found that the voltage now is 112 on the low setting.

That gives a very good active burn but very little adjustment range.

Going slower causes the shells to pile up a lot after a few hours of burn time.

A fan that really pulls some air would allow things to run slower and still get great air flow, plus have a lot of adjustment (Faster) if need be.

What is the specs on that HUGE sucker (Diameter and shaft size)

 

Good Analysis
The big blade single paddles are 4-3/4 so they will fit as long as your housing is deep enough. Blades are 1" tall so you need approx 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" depth
You can always change the housing.

 

I will lay a tape into my spare ADV 2 T and see what the depth is.

I really like the idea of a fan with more "Bite"

Running the voltage up towards full line is OK, but during the start up and until the low temp snap makes contact I need to run the thing on level 2 to be sure there is enough heat to get the snap to close without the startup timer running out before there is enough heat.

The other day after the DEEEEEEEEP clean and subsequent better air flow the fire was nearly going out between drops and the timer ran out and she shut down.

Running on level 2 gets the unit up to temp fairly quick and things work fine.

I am hoping that with the greater flow of the larger fan paddles that I can run the voltage lower and still keep a good fire, plus having a lot more latitude to tweak the speed up if need be.

Just gonna be a trial and error on that one me thinks.

Worst case scenario will be to adjust the thing to a sweet spot and mark the meter with a green line at the spot, then leave it there.

The feed rate is gonna be about the same sort of thing.

The 7 second off and 1-1/2 to 2 seconds feed is a good all around setting.

The heat range on this setting is good with external vent temps at the connection to the fan housing at about 16o F surface temp.

Any more fuel is really going to cook this thing, as the shells are sort of like burning a wood stove on KINDLING
The stuff burns far faster and gives off its heat quickly as compared to the compressed pellets.

So shoving a lot of shells in builds a huge fire and quick, hence the need for better adjustments

The new panel will have rates as follows

7 seconds off (Low as it will really keep a good fire) also is a good heat level
6.5 seconds off
6 seconds off
5 seconds off (Absolute high)

The factory 5 position would melt the stove.

POSSIBLY
With a better draft fan and being able to control the air better an 8 second position might be doable, but I worry about keeping the low snap locked in.

Again, a trial and error thing.

 

Hi Snowy
The big blades are really tall
1-3/16" to be exact see pic

 

Hi Snowy
What you discovered here is what I also discovered. I have defined the issue as cold start syndrome or CSS. I discovered the issue testing an old quadrafire in my shed when the inside as well as the outside temp was below 30 Degrees. The stove failed to start on the low heat setting because there was not enough vacuum or heat to warm the stove up before the start timer timed out. The upgraded clear control box as well as most new digital control panels now override the heat level settings during the start cycle and start the stove on heat level 3 or medium heat. Then after the start cycle is over the panel allows the user to change the heat settings.

 

Yes that is a concern but it seems to me that once the stove heats up it should stay locked in. Having the fan go fast enough to keep the vacuum switch locked in in my opinion is more of a concern and the larger blades will certainly help that.

 

I'd be really curious here to see some draft readings with the various impellers. Consider though, that too much draft will decrease the dwell time on your heat exchangers and might actually lower the heat output of the stove.

 

I agree. Mike from Englander mentioned to me about having the comb. fan running too high, as it just sends the heat out the exhaust......not enough time for the heat exchanger to pull the heat out.

 

The Whit does not use a vacuum switch on the firebox, only a pressure switch to shut things off if the vent becomes plugged.

I intend to install a switch to kill the fuel if the draft fan stops or the door is open, or anything that causes zero vacuum in the firebox.

Also want to add a pressure switch on the room air heat chamber, no room fan, fuel gets chopped, and stove shuts off.

Two very important upgrades me thinks.

 

The big issue I have to deal with is, that the shells will pile up and not burn up to light ash and blow out of the pot on a low draft fan speed.

Running more air through the pot makes a hotter, more brisk fire.

When this stove is running well the fire has a blue base to the flames and dances real good.

Over time the pot will accumulate ash and clinker, but the air will still zip through well.
Once the thing gets a clinker going the only thing to do is kill the feed, let the fire die out to coals, then use a putty knife and clear the junk out and leave enough coals to rekindle the fire, then flip the feed back on.

Good for another jag, maybe a day or at least 10-12 hours before it needs it again.

The fact that this particular fuel has it's peculiarities just makes it a touch more interesting to keep things in the sweet spot is all.

Having a bigger fan may give better latitude to the adjustment ???????

 

Went downstairs and scoped out the fan chamber on the Spare Whit
From the mounting surface to the inside wall of the housing is 1-1/2 inches.

With the fan being 1-1/4 inches we should be able to get that big paddled sucker in there.

A tad tight, but looks doable

1.5" minus 1.25" is .250" and we need a little clearance from the back plate to the fan, so .125" in the back will leave .125" between the back of the housing and the blade tips, then add a tad for the gasket in there.

It won't have a buttload of room, but should work.

I will just need to stick one of those fans on the motor and give it a go.

Will definitely fill up the housing far better than the original fan did for sure.

Suck the glass out of the door maybe

 

Glad the big fan blade will fit, but I do highly recommend the heavier 1.75 amp motor to spin it. I have had people try the big fan blade on their 1 amp motors and end up buying a 1.75 amp motor I have because their 1 amp motor would not cut the mustard!!!

 

I have the Gleason Avery 1.75 amp open frame motor.

I scared one up that fits a Harman I think, same rotation and the back plate is correct.
The only issue is the shaft is about 1/2" too long, So I cut it off and dressed it down so its flush with the fan hub.

This said I may need to trim it more with the bigger fan and the blade sitting closer to the back plate

Will see what shakes.

I agree, the higher amp motor is far better than the factory 1.25 amp unit.

The open frame motors are quieter too, especially when running at lower voltages/speeds.
Tend not to do the Wha Wha Wha thing.

 

Looking forward to trying out the one with them HUUUUUUUGE WINGS

That should work great, especially with the HD G A motor

 

Yes it should work great! That G A motor has more magnetic plates and more correct so it works much better at the lower speeds!

 

Do they make a similar motor for the room air blower ???

 

Hi Robyn
Check this out!
Replace ****** with "hearth"
http://www.eastcoast******.com/prod...60-hudson-river-saranac-upgrade-80622-hr-110s