Looks like I'm going to have to remove the damper....or part of it.... as well as knock out a couple of blocks above it. Has anyone done this before? I'm going to have to do it to some extent. The flue opening is a little over five and I will need at least six. Any advice before I just start hacking would be great. The picture is taken shooting up the chimney from the existing fireplace. The bottom of the picture would be the rear, top is the front.
Are you prepping the area for a SS flue liner to go up through the area of the fireplace damper? If so, and you think you will never use the fireplace damper again, I'd consider removing the damper completely, or at least the damper door and leave the frame. As far as the brick is concerned, it looks like the brick in question is part of a small shelf that was built to frame in the area for the damper frame. If your trying to cut out or remove just enough brick to put a new SS flue liner in, it looks like you will be ok. It doesn't look structural but I am in no position from the one picture to see any of the other chimney structural parts to say it's ok to do.
Yea, prepping for a SS liner. I never plan to use the fireplace as a fireplace again, so removing whatever is necessary is no concern. I did take the door off, and I still need more clearance, so I suppose I will need to cut the frame out, and then knock some of those bricks out. It is just a shelf like you said. Thank you.
I had to cut my damper out. I was able to leave the frame in place. Each side of the damper had a 3/4 inch long pivot rod to open and close. I just cut one of those pivot rods off with an angle grinder and cutting disc and was able to remove the door. If I want to reinstall in the future, it will just be a small welding job to put it back together... As for the brick.. I'd recommend an angle grinder and a diamond blade to take out as little as you need to to get the liner by.. Shop vac by your side while doing the work. I'd be worried about doing more damage than I want to if just whacking some bricks with hammer and chisel. Good luck
Just checked... I had to cut both pivot pins from the damper.... I think if I was going to reinstall it, I'd cut the rest of the pins off on both sides and then just weld new pins to the plate.. Not planning to do that any time in the near future
I used an angle grinder with a cut off wheel on the steel to cut it out. You should be fine chipping the brick away with a hammer and masonry chisel, at least it worked out ok for me. That is what they call the smoke shelf in the fireplace. If you would happen to knock out too big of a chunk just get a little quick set mortar and mud a small piece back in.
Yup, angle grinder with abrasive disc to cut the damper out, then switch to a diamond wheel to cut any brick out. Cut a bigger hole than you think you will need, or you will get to do it again (like me) to actually get the liner in and hooked up. It is really easy to seal the over sized hole up with rock wool and then install a block off plate to finish things off. If your chimney works well, and you can open the windows on a breezy day, you wont even need a shop vac, the dust will all get sucked right up the chimney...at least it worked that way for me. If the chimney needs cleaned, (and it looks like it does) now is the time to do it...and clean up anything laying up on the smoke shelf once you get things opened up too. Oh, and you are gonna insulate your liner? It is totally worth the extra money, better draft in warmer temps, less smoke on reloads, and just in general a better working stove...the chimney is the engine that drives the stove as they say, put in the best one that you can!
Going to install a Woodstock AS. My chimney is 17 feet high. Yes, I will insulate my flue. The damper door is off, so all I have to deal with is the frame, and then some bricks.
Cut that metal out and beat whatever you need to out. It's the smoke shelf. And if you won't use it as a stove again it does not matter. You can always put more brick back in if you like to ever return to an open FP in the future.
