So I bought a Countyline 25 ton splitter from TCS about 2 months ago. The splitter has been really nice. I have been doing a bunch of oak with it and having to split vertically with a bunch of it as some of the rounds are up to 34". I was using it the other day and noticed a couple of wear spots on the sides of the inside channel where the wedge rides. Felt inside there and the wedge shuttle (plate) is gouging the side of the mail beam out on both sides, one side more than the other. When splitting vertically, I notices that the wedge shuttle is very loose in the channel and I think it's getting pushed to the sides when splitting. I went and talked to the manager at TCS who I know. He said that there was a design change sometime back and that they have been getting some back because of this same problem. He offered me another splitter or to get my money back. I'm going to take the splitter back today. It's too bad as it's really a nice unit except for this problem. I have a line on an older splitter that has hardly been used at all. It's a Wood General brand and were sold at TCS and other farm supply stores some years back. Doing some research, it's looks like it's built by a company called Brave. This one is a 35 ton, and has a 10hp Tecumseh engine on it. It does not have the same shutter configuration as this Countyline I have. It has the old style shuttle that clamps to the top of the I-beam and can not push sideways. If I get it, I will take a few pics and post them here. Attached is a pic of the damage to the Countyline. The pic is hard to tell what your looking at, but it's the inside side plate of the main beam. It's gouged out nearly 1/8" on the worst side.
I've noticed the same with mine, I assumed it was normal wear. I don't know how much metal is removed, I'll have to look at it closer. I just attempt to keep it greased up but it doesn't last too long with all the dust/dirt etc from splitting.
I looked at the manual and it didn't say anything abut greasing that area. I was going to anyway, but was worried that a bunch of grit and bark would stay in ther ewith the grease and make it worse.
I don't know about making it worst, I haven't noticed and can't tell if it has helped or not. It just doesn't seem like it stays long with all the bark pushing it off. Manual doesn't say anything about greasing it, I just did it since I noticed the wear marks. Some splitters have grease fittings too, the thought has crossed my mind about adding one. Sure would cut down on the mess of doing it by hand.
I returned the splitter to TSC today and they are issuing a refund. Good company to work with. I went directly to a friends and bout this splitter from him. It's a Wood General (made by Brave) and it's 35 ton. It has the old style shuttle so it shouldn't have the problems that the Countyline did. This splitter was bout about 12 years ago and has only been used a few times. Fuel was drained, and it was stored in his shop. Thing looks near new. Has a 10hp Tecumseh engine. Oil in drip pan in pics was not from the splitter, though the return hose could be changed. Need to find some rubber hose that is oil resistant.
That style you bought can and will go sideways as well. The crapsman splitter I was using is the same style. Couple times I thought it was going to go sideways on me. I'm not sure how much is design or lack of maintenance. If I remember I'll try and get a pic of what it looks like tomorrow. No metal wear though like the countyline.
At least on this one, if it tries to go sideways, I'll be able to see it happening. There is very little side play on this one I have now, so it should be much better,
I have a DHT which is just another copy of a Countyline. Same interior riding plate design. It’s a horrible design IMO. Yes your supposed to keep the greased. Doesn’t last long. I just built a four way wedge for it from the ground up. Went with tighter tolerances than factory in width and thickness. Also used a dry lubricant. Tungsten Disulfide. One of the best lubes out there but expensive. I have a lifetime supply so why not? It can be used dry or mixed with any carrier. I’m constant.y fixing and modifying this DHT to make it work better. That internal shoe has many drawbacks. Constantly fills up with wood scrap and compresses it against the stop. Fixed that by cutting out large holes for it to drop through. Shortened the plate on my modified version so there’s no compression. Would never buy one of these again. You need to lube your new one too. That’s a lot of pressure for a metal to metal fit with no lube. Anything you got is better than nothing.
Bought a new grease gun today just for that reason. On the other one I got, I changed the hydraulic fluid and motor oil in it today. Ran it for awhile and spit some nasty oak with it just to see how much different it is compared to the Countyline. WOW! Huge difference. This thing at half throttle doesn't even try to slow down.
Thanks for the heads up … bought a 25 ton Countyline last Thanksgiving's sale. Put it together but haven't run it yet, just getting ready to start using it.Will keep a close eye on it and and post any problems.
Got the splitter out to get ready to use and slid the shoe/wedge assy. out and checked it out. Thinking maybe of taking and cleaning up the outside leading edge of the shear cuts on both sides. Might eliminate or slow down the wear problem. Keep ya posted
I wonder if a delrin "shoe" on the sides would help with the wear, it at least would wear down instead. Not sure how we could get one made for it. 3d printing?
I know nothing about 3d printing. I think it can be machined though right? It was a thought but the more I look at mine I'm not sure there would be enough room to stick anything in there to make a difference. While there is slop, there isn't that much slop so maybe an 1/8" shoe on each side might even be too much. Not sure how you could mount it on there either without removing something. I don't have a caliper to really measure it. I still keep forgetting to get a picture of that crapsman splitter. I know the top of the base of my wedge has a pretty good flat spot on it now from wearing.
Yes, you can machine Delrin, but don't know how you would get it mounted in there either. You will notice more slop when you go vertical with it.
