Conveyor build

Okay, people seem to like build threads and I got a lot of favorable comments from the splitter so I'm going to do one on this conveyor. WARNING, this will be a step by step with lots of pics and descriptions so some my not like the detail. I always like stuff like this because I can pick up tricks and ideas for future projects. Not saying the way I do things is the best way, It's just the way I did it and Lord knows I make some mistakes along the way.

With the disclaimer out of the way, here's the plan. Always try to come up with something to make the wood gathering/processing easier. I take the approach of using the money saved to make the "system" easier. This also lets me be able to do wood heat longer as age creeps up on me.

Been watching sale adds and such for a conveyor. My plan was to get a conveyor with options. I want to be able to use it as not only a conveyor but also a level, moving table that is totally adjustable. I have some ideas I have not seen on current offerings so some of it may be a little involved or may not work at all. All part of the fun huh? Here we go.



Got this conveyor off craigslist and it was listed by the manager of a closing Kmart store. It's 20 foot long and has a 2 ft wide with a 18 inch wide belt.



Just home here and backing it in to the shop. Luckily they loaded it with their forklift and helped getting it down to the floor. WE took rollers along to roll out then he again lifted it onto the trailer. Sure made it easy and glad they were so helpful.



They were using it to feed their storage loft and I bet many a box went up there. It has a 3/4 horse single phase motor with gear reduction.



A great feature it has is forward and reverse. I'll be using this flat a lot to load and unload but want to see how it will do loading into a trailer. No paddles or hooks will limit the steepness it can go but the belt is pretty rough and "grippy" so we'll see.



It has switches at top and bottom which is great as well. Outside out of reach of an outlet I'll have to take a generator along but it won't be a problem for me. Being able to switch on and off and reverse directions more than makes up for it.



My idea is to make a straight substructure so I can have a slide rollers to raise and lower it like a hay elevator. First step is to take off the feet that are on it.m It's all bolted on so it will be easy.



Took the cover off and got a surprise. Twine , plastic and tape was wrapped around the shaft. Then I notice something else. See how the chain is straight?



Either someone at the factory or whoever assembled this put the gear on backward. Notice the set screw can't even be tightened as it's on 2/3 on the shaft.It was loose and the only thing from keeping it on was the binding of the chain.



I think they did it because you have to have a long allen wrench to get in there if you put it on right. Notice all the stuff that was wrapped up in it on the floor.

 

Using Box tubing for the substructure and needed to lengthen the pieces I had. Cleaned them up and put a chamfer so good weld build and strength.



Makes for a good weld and I'll hit all sides.



Made up some brackets to bolt it all on. I don't want to weld it on as I can change stuff that way. Rails have holes allready in it so it's a no brainer.



Welded the ends on at the table then bolted the brackets on and brought the rail over. I then tacked the rail to the brackets. Takes all the measuring out of it and saves mistakes. I put cardbord over the belt to save it from the sparks and such.



The rails are this tall to get over the motor and gearbox on the other end. They also have a stretcher in the middle and want to leave that on.



Up next are the cross members that will give it strength and will keep everything square. I'm using a chop saw for the majority of this.



Tacked them all in and kept checking squareness. Everything came together nice.



The center has this tube brace and I want to leave it in. The easiest thing I can think up is an angle tube coming from the cross brace. Not much support under it but I think it'll be fine. Time will tell.



Easiest way I have found is to use a paint stick for a pattern. Trim the angles till their right and the length as well. Takes a little time but saves mistakes and wasted metal.

 

Awsome pic keep up the good work.

 

likey so far

 

Awesome, love these kind of projects. Keep up the great work

 

Surprised it isn't 480VAC.

 

I always appreciate a good build thread.

What's the plan to power it? Generator or do you bring your logs to a central splitting area near power?

 

Very nice CL find

 

I'm not really planning on dragging it in the woods. Mainly to unload and load out of the barns. around the barns they have power so it's not a problem. portable generator everywhere else. 3/4 HP on gear reduction shouldn't pull that much. I too was surprised it was 110, but happy

 

Going to run a bolt up from the bottom to secure it. Got a piece of scrap 3/8" metal and marked the center and in measure of the hole. Centered it and pilot drill.



Drill the hole to tap size



Then put a tap in and start it. I keep them loose and then finish by hand.



All tapped and tube cut to size. Now I'll cut the tapped plug to size.



Beveled the edges and set it flush, Tacked it in place.




After welding it in I ground the weld to flush.



Both of them done and in and gives a pretty clean look.



On the end I want to have heavy caster wheels so when loading/unloading on the level it doesn't get tippy and it will be self contained. I'm going to reuse the foot bracket as it has adjustment capability.



I cut the feet off and will be mounting it backwards from what they had. Just works out better for my application. Welding it on here.

 

Both of them on and doing all the final welding.



With the box tubing you can get pretty strong joints because of the surface area.



Frame work serves double duty to strengthen the whole thing and give me a nice track for the lift wheels to follow.



Bolted it all back on and the highest the wheels will be is 54 inches.



The lowest is 36 inches which is about as low as I want to reach. I like this system as I can take the adjustable section out if I want to use it as an elevator or go into a trailer.



Cut the mounting plates out with the chop saw, rounded the corners and smoothed the edges



Laid the caster on and traced the holes. center punched and pilot drilled and then drilled the final hole size. Notice I clamped both of them together for time savings.



All done and ready to weld onto the legs.



Remember the brackets that attached the box beam rails to the conveyor? I cut 45's on the edges and these are the scraps. Now to use them for strengthening gussets.

 

Nice work!

 

Kevin in Ohio ... thank you for taking the time to photo doc this whole project and to drop in comments as you go. After enjoying your splitter build pics, I was expecting these this time. I know that doing stuff like this can only result in you ending up with what you wanted... because of many years of learning tips and tricks. It shows. Great job so far...

 

Do you want to build me a splitter?