Chimney Brush Question

Okay...I haven't cleaned my chimney at all this season. Don't yell at me, it's a brand new chimney. Anyhow, I want to run the brush through it and see what comes out of it. I have the brush/rods and have cleaned masonry chimneys before...well, this is Stainless Steel...I have a Rutland Poly Chimney brush for the job. Being it's a poly brush how long do I need to let things cool down before I run the brush (would be lousy to melt the thing) I am thinking things will cool down pretty quick at 10f right now. Any advice? Things I should consider/watch out for?

 

With a poly brush I would let the whole works cool down, That's not based on anything at all, just what I would do.

 

The bristles may be slightly too big to fit in the pipe. Mine was, so I carefully snipped off the ends all the way around and it's now gooder.
I'd wait for a warm spell and let the furnace take over if needed while the pipe/stove cool down a bit.

 

Let it cool down. I can look up my chimney through the clean out on a sunny day and see the top and the overall condition inside. I suggest doing that once a month vs just running the brush up it blind. I pop the cleanout off when the stove is just hot coals. Takes all of 30 seconds. Just my take and I have a three story stainless 8 inch chimney, burning nearly 10 real cords a season.

 

What he said....
I have both poly and wire brushes, I generally just use the wire brush, the one time I used the poly brush I found it would go down fine but when I tried to reverse directions and pull it up it would get stuck and want to lift the whole chimney right up off the ceiling collar.

As to melting the poly brush, unless you actually have hot coals in your stove the chimney is not gona be hot enough to melt your brush. I prefer cleaning the chimney and stove when they are still warm because it will still be drawing a bit and help suck any ash or creosote up and out the chimney and help prevent ash from drifting out the stove door and into the living area.

 

What I was told by the installer and a couple of others is that I need to use a poly brush and not a steel wire one...they say the steel will scratch up the pipe and cause problems. I am a bit concerned about being able to reasonably reverse the brush either way and really don't want to trim the bristles (but I would do it if that's what is needed).

 

I didn't either, but ya' do what ya' gotta' do. Not difficult, just takes a few minutes.
I used metal snips, but you could use a decent scissors.

 

I personally would let the whole stove cool down, which probably means at least a full 24 hrs of not burning. I'd have to drop the baffle out of my stove, and I don't really want to handle it if it's warm. I've kinda been putting it off actually because everytime I drop the baffle, I have to replace the crappy baffle gasket.

 

Cleaning mine for the first time last fall and had to trim the brush. Still could reverse it in the pipe. But I have a T at the bottom so was able to pop out of that and then pull it back up. Gonna trim a bit more off the tips for the next cleaning which will Be whenever temps are above freezing and I’m Home to do it


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The best way to change direction with a tight brush is to twist the rod clockwise as you apply pressure in the opposite direction, this has the effect of twisting the bristles towards the shaft effectively shortening them. Once you feel the brush start to move easier in the opposite direction relax the twist.

I only clean my flue's once per year during summer.


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That's the same technique I employee. Once a year with a poly brush.
Letting the fire go out/short hot burns rather than trying to maintain a slow low burn has really helped keep the chimney free of anything but a little bit of dry dusty soot.