Changed the door gasket

Ordered a gasket from ESW, which came toady via UPS.
I hadn't had any fire for a couple hours, so the stove was cooling, which allowed me to start on the replacement.
I had put on an Imperial gasket using their glue earlier this year. That stuff acts like Great Stuff when it gets hot and pretty much doesn't hold.
Anyway, when I pulled on the old gasket, it kinda' just fell out and almost disintegrated in my hands.

Insulation still needs to go in the walls.....

 

I was somewhat surprised that they sent normal high temp RTV sealant.

Gasket cut and rough fit before RTV.
Sorry, no pic of that.

 

The original gasket and this one are very un-fluffy. Quite unlike the Rutland and Imperial I've used.
Shipping is just plain stupid on these.

 

Not really, although I thought I did after I installed the stove.
When I did the dollar bill test, the hinge side came out fairly easily, so I changed to the Imperial (all I could find local at the time).
It gradually compressed to the point my door handle was past the 6 o'clock mark when closed.
I tinker too much.

 

I keep thinking of putting the mapp torch to it and getting a bit more bend, but then I'm "tinkering" again.

 

Yep, I just laid the gasket in the groove.
No stretchy.

 

Yep, I gave up on the farm store/stove shop gaskets. All OEM from here on out.

 

Very timely thread, as I was going to ask a few questions...
My Alderlea Gasket was very worn, so when the boys came to clean the flue and a few other things, I had them change the door gasket. Young man was somewhat new, and did a lousy job--it was falling out in places, so the more experienced guy came and fixed it. He used that red colored silicone stuff.
Now, I am sure I can doa neater job of this myself, once I can find some 5/16 gasket, but I was wondering what would be the better cement? I don't have a lot of muscle to dig out concrete-like stuff too often, and Guy #1 made quite a mess with it. Is the RTV stuff easier, and if not, is there a cement that isn't, well, like cement? Also, it would not be feasible for me to remove the door.

 

Not removing the door makes it more difficult to keep the gasket in place while working it around the door.
You could hold it in place with some painters tape while the sealant dries.
The RTV has a consistency a lot like caulk.
You can buy hi-temp RTV at WallyWorld, or any automotive store, hardware, or online.
Be aware, the RTV can be messy, and will go everywhere if you aren't careful to wipe it off your fingers as you work with it.
Once you get the gasket in place, make sure there isn't any oozing all over, then shut the door and latch it for a couple hours. It won't be fully cured yet, but you can have a fire at that point.
Don't use the Imperial "glue" if you can't remove the door. It's very runny.
http://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Repla...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00ATPQKOQ

 

Thank you, Papadave, I had heard that the glue that comes with the rutland gaskets is runny.
I think I will try the RTV, and use the masking tape trick. Though the gasket is not worn yet, I think he had stretched it in places, if you hold the lighter up to it when closed and fired up, there is some suction here and there.

 

The sealant that has come with the Rutland gaskets I've used isn't runny, but the Imperial is.
The gasket should not be stretched out when installing, rather just laid into the gasket channel. Obviously, the "pro" didn't do a very gooder job, if you're seeing air infiltration around the gasket.
I'd take it out and do another one, and not call them again. That's me though.
Good luck and if I can help any more, I will.

 

Thanks for the advice, and the link!
I will probably order the item from Amazon using your link. But I'll probably use the RTV silicone.

 

Good Point!

 

They do make hi-temp RTV for like making Engine gaskets

 

If you have, or can borrow, an angle grinder with a cable-twist wire brush, it makes short work of removing old gasket cement or silicone.

Right. The copper stuff is recommended for exhaust systems and takes 700 intermittent. The Buck 91 had all silicone from the plant. Buck guy emailed me that they use 650 stuff during assembly. The door on the Buck doesn't get real hot; Frame is shielded from radiation, which only hits the glass. I dabbed a little on the ends of the gasket to keep it from unraveling over time. I re-did all the gaskets in the stove, laid a 1/16" sheet of aluminum in the bottom of the ash pan housing to make the top of the gasket hit better (I may have installed it a little low,metal is curved there and I could have gotten it higher,) and that thing is running like a champ. Depending on how much I burn in a fresh load, White Ash will easily go to my next re-load in 12 hrs. with some intact splits left for easy on-the-fly re-load, or if I get a little more of the re-load going will go 1500/500 on the meters with a big coal bed left to toss on a couple of splits for a ramp-up, then re-load. Can't wait to get some White Oak, Pignut and BL over there and let 'er rip. Oops, sorry about the threadjack.