Hey guys new member here. Got referred here by a mechanic at the my local shop. Seems like a great community here. I believe I'll enjoy hanging out on the porch with everyone here. I hope I am posting up in the right place. If not a mod is more than welcome to move it to the right spot. Anyway enough of my rambling. I recently bought a saw used off a guy that works for a land clearing company in the area. He was asking $50 for a Husquavarna 340 with a "bad knock". I figured for $50 I would add another project to the bench. Once I picked it up I got it back to the house and cranked it. I let it run for only a few seconds before I cut it off. The "bad knock" sounded like the top end was about to fly apart. So I tore everything down and found pieces of the piston in the crank. I don't know how this poor saw wasn't locked up much less running. Well barely running. I have used a buddies 340 before and really liked it. That is why I picked this one up. I will post a few pics below. Must excuse the tear down area. The garage is freshly rebuilt after a fire 7 months ago. I had a few questions on the rebuild and any help would greatly be appreciated. What would be a good choice for a new piston and head? Part of the exhaust port is broken off and figured a new head would be necessary. Only just a hair but what would yalls thoughts be? The 340 I've used in the past didn't turn up a lot of rpm's or "scream" like other saws I've had in my hands. The 340 is has plenty of torque but is there a trade off between rpm's and torque on the 340? If so what could I change to get more rpm's out of it? Also what I believe is a shim on the crankshaft bearing is missing on one side. Where would be a good place to order one of these? If there is anything yall would change on the 340 what would it be? I don't mind spending a little money on this saw cause it didn't cost much to begin with. Would really like to have a good felling saw and firewood saw out of this one. Also if pics are needed of certain parts I will get them up ASAP. Just say the word and I'll get them up. Plan on posting a few more tomorrow showing some more detail. Thank you again for any help or suggestions, -Rick In the middle of the tear down: Mangled piston: T2 Tappin'
I am not the expert on rebuilding saws. From reading your post it may be a better plan to look for another saw. Maybe one of the fhc saw builder/ porting master folks will be along soon to chime in.
Thank you for the quick reply. I am still in my amateur stages of rebuilding. Figured this might be a good venture to learn on. Hoping I can still manage to get this one running but I know I took great risks with this one. T2 Tappin'
I would inquire about the price of an OEM top-end kit at your local dealer. Husky parts are surprisingly inexpensive most of the time. The 340 was a good, and under-appreciated little saw.
If you can get parts cheap go for it. That's a clam shell saw , just buy the whole motor and be done. I would personally passed and get a decent used saw. I have 445 that looks beat but runs flawless. Something like that would be cheaper than this. When looking for a project find really cheap or free esp with known damage.
They quoted over the phone for $74 and some change for the piston. Then $118 and some change for piston/head. They were stock OEM parts. Seemed like a pretty decent price. Didn't know if someone like Meteor or NWP might make something better? Didn't know if a big bore kit might be an option? Never used anything but OEM in the past. Don't want a hot saw by any means haha but would like to build one that screams with plenty of torque behind it. Figured I'd ask some of the experts with much more experience than myself before starting on this venture. -Rick T2 Tappin'
No way I would pit that money into that saw. That's just me. If the rest of the saw looks brand new mabe. But didn't you question the bearings or something? Do you know the reason for the damage in the first place? The 340 is a small plastic saw right not the 349 (or is that 346?)pro saw MM is talking about. What's that saw cost new? $300. Your $50 into it. You will basically be $200 more dollars into it with the p&c and fuel lines aND tax and still have an old saw. If you bought it new you could have a 2 year warrenty. This does not get you the experience your looking for and gratification you seek though. All that to say, I would use quality aftermarket parts if you still choose to rebuild this saw. Meteor will be a good option. I wouldn't big bore it, many have not good things to say about them.
I've got two 142's and they have been running flawlessly for almost 5 years now. Never ventured into buying bigger saws mainly cause of prices but didn't know if maybe this could be a start. Maybe coming out under $200 for the rebuild and learning experience? T2 Tappin'
Those 141 or 142 are plastic nightmare saws. I rebuilt a carb on one as a favor/learning esperience on those saws. I don't want one back again ever in my hands. You have to take the wrap handle off or loose just to get the carb off. Why!!! Thas a stupid design . And I don't think a 340 is a big saw? A 142 is what 32cc or 40cc? And a 340 is 40cc right?
Thank you for the honesty and it is definitely something to consider. It is still debatable whether I go on this venture depending what it would cost to get it running properly. I'm not set on going on this venture. There are small metal shims/spaces on the crankshaft seals. One of those shims/spacers was missing when I tore it down. I will get pics up in the morning of what I am talking about exactly. I have cleaned the carb once on one of my 142's and it was indeed a pain. By bigger I meant a step up from these 142's. A 340 is no XP 5 series and by far no 3120 XP. Just a step up from my current saws. I have never owned a big saw but I have used several while working felling pines. I will probably never have the need to own a 3120 XP but maybe a 5 series one day. -Rick T2 Tappin'
The bearings from what I can tell are perfectly fine. No damage to the crank assembly or the housing. I will also get pics the best I can of this in the morning also -Rick T2 Tappin'
The 340 has the same bottom end as the 345 & 350. You'll need the riser block to put the 350 or 346 top end on it.
This is the route I would go. Get a oem 346 p/c and bearing cup. For the money it doesn't make sense. You can spend the same money and get much improved performance and power with the 346 top end. It also might lead into spending way to much money on the saw. Because after you do it you will want to upgrade the intake, get a muffler support and possible carb and coil upgrades. Btw I have had great luck with Chinese carbs for these saws.
I look at good runner used sale price in a rebuild. Around here, you may get $110 for this saw because it says Husqvarna. If saw was a 42cc Poulan, it'd be $65. If you want to learn rebuilding, it would be cheap tuition to get a FarmerTec 42mm topend for $25 on ebay. And they have 45mm big bores for $50 - I dunno if you'd need different intake parts but that would add up $.
Here is the 340 IPL. Look it over and see what parts should be there. http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2006_AAaa/HUSI2006_AAaa__5449075-01.pdf
concretegrazer is the riser block something I could order from say Bailey's? Kyle Mulligan sounds like the 346 top end might be the way to go rather than a new piston & head. Do you know if Bailey's has everything? The carb on the saw has a China stamp on it and I assume it is stock equipment. With the 346 top end can I still use the same carb setup that's on the saw? dougand3 thank you for the link I will give it a look right now. I got FarmerTec written down so I can give that a look also. Jon1270 thank you for the link on the OEM top end. I got that bookmarked in case the 346 top end doesn't work out -Rick T2 Tappin'
Got some pics to show everything in a little more detail. Here is the crankshaft. My finger is pointing to the shim/spacer that I was talking about earlier that was missing. I've got the one remaining shim/spacer in my hand Here is the head It looks to have an almost brand new sprocket Here is a pic of the carb -Rick T2 Tappin'
The 346 P&C which I will post a link to below does a look a bit different. With the riser block is that something Bailey's carries? Meteor Piston & Cylinder Assembly (45Mm) For Husqvarna 346 Xp, 350, 351, 353 Chainsaws (Replaces 537 25 31-04) | Meteor Cylinder Assemblies for Husqvarna Chainsaws | Chainsaw Cylinder Assemblies | www.www.baileysonline.com.com T2 Tappin'
Its proper name is "bearing cup," and you won't find it on the 346 parts list because the 346 is a split mag-cased saw and doesn't need it. You'll find it on the IPL for the Husqvarna 350. The PN is 503885901. I'd recommend a new one, either OEM or aftermarket, because the holes used to screw it to the plastic case strip out easily, leading to a big air leak.
