Hey what's up everyone. I headed out to the flea market this morning since I got a call there was a pretty good selection of tools for sale. Ended up picking up a Plumb hatchet and a used can't hook. Ive been needing a can't hook for a couple weeks just haven't made it anywhere to buy one that had one in stock. Saw this one for $20 so I picked it up. Wondering if anyone had any tips on restoring it? The ears on the joint are kind of bent out a little and some of the bolts are in rough shape. Also needs a new handle as this one has a crack in it but I'm going to use it until it breaks and replace it then. What would be y'all's tips on bending the ears back straight on the joint? Also would you go ahead and replace the bolts that go through the handle and keep the stock handle or just replace the handle too? What are yalls opinions on a proper restoration? Thanks for any help, -Rick T2 Tappin'
I am far from expert so take it for what it is worth. I think, if it was me, I would concentrate my efforts on that damaged handle. If you look at how the forces will be applied to it in actual use, all of your effort will go to pulling those carriage bolts through the handle. With that big crack I suspect it won't survive that force for very long.
I do appreciate that info. I am going to replace the handle for sure. I tried it out this evening and the handle is giving a little bit in the middle. I don't believe it will survive for long. I hope I can get these bolts out of the handle. If I can they will be replaced with stainless steel. One task is going to be finding a handle locally without ordering one online. T2 Tappin'
Replace the handle if you think it's getting ready to break. Replace the bolts if you want to. Otherwise, just use it. Bending the "ears" back will just damage the metal more. Put some oil on the metal if you want.
Nice find. I would replace the hardware and pinch the spread metal that holds the dog in a vice. Cutting/grinding the heads off the carriage bolts and knock them out with a punch. If the entire handle wasn't rotted out- I would repair it. Super glue in the crack, "Fiber Fix" around the outside. I've used it on splitting mauls and it is tough. I hold the handle lightly in a vice and using the vice top as a guide- file a grove into the handle as a finish line for the wrap. After wrapping the handle, I file and sand it smooth. Lots cheaper than a handle, especially with shipping.
On bending the ears, if they bent out-it probably won't break when you bend them back. Remove the bolt, fill the opening with the dog and a washer or two for the finish size and close it in a vice. A elastic stop nut or peening the threads over on the new bolt will keep it from coming off. A good application of Boiled Linseed Oil on everything will preserve it after you do the repairs. Don't oil before if you are repairing the handle Good Luck
I got plenty of boiled linseed oil that I use on axe handles I can use on this. Got to match up some stainless bolts as I don't think I can find iron bolts readily available. I'll take a cut off disc to the bolts and see if they will knock out with a small punch. Where do you pick up fiber fix? The only place I could find locally with handles was Agri-Supply. Well they are a 50min drive but still kind of local. They have them for 19.99. When I replace the bolt holding the dog on I will add a couple washers on each side of the dog. I am starting to think trying to bend iron very much could result in fracturing the metal especially if the iron is similar to cast iron. Keep those ideas coming in I really do appreciate the help guys/gals T2 Tappin'
I found a replacement handle this afternoon at my local brick and mortar. I got so excited replacement carriage bolts with lock nuts. Then replaced the axel bolt that goes through the hook with a 7/16 grade 8 bolt with a lock nut. Coated everything with boiled linseed oil to seal everything. If anyone sees anything I could have done differently to improve the process please let me know I found that it was made by Warren Axe & Tool Co. Pics of the resto: T2 Tappin'
Nice, I can't tell but grain direction should be lined up parallel to the dog as much as possible to avoid breakage
Thank you mike bayerl The grain was lined up and before I drilled through to mount the carriage bolts it shifted a little to the right and I didn't even realize it. Hopefully it won't effect it too much. A Visitor T2 Tappin'
Nice cant hook now put it to work ! A stover nut would give the bolts less stickout than a nylock keeping more of a traditional look .
Thank you. I have put it to work for sure the past two evenings. I didn't see any stover nuts at Lowe's. Its helped me spilt up some 30-34" rounds. Pics are below T2 Tappin'
Truck repair or spring shop , a place like Fastenall or other industrial supply house is where I'd look in your area for bolts and hardware . If you want and can't find , send me a pm with your addy and I'll mail you a couple from the Great White North , I own an auto repair shop and stock them .
Wow I do appreciate that Dancan I will check Napa and a local parts house Fisher Auto Parts to see what I can find. If I can't find them I'll shoot you a PM. If I have to get some from you maybe I can trade some Red Oak Noodles, Fat Lighter, Red Cedar, or something of the sorts for the bolts T2 Tappin'
Car parts supply places suck for that stuff around here , we have a truck parts supplier that service trucks as well , they have good stock on that stuff . A fat lighter sure sounds like a nice trade lol
