Can Durock directly support a heavy stove?

I need to lift the new Ideal Steel 1.5 inches to align its rear-exhaust collar with my flue thimble height. The I.S. is 550 lbs. Is Durock next generation strong enough to support the stove's feet ditectly without getting crushed (dimpled or cracked)? I expect to lay two layers of 1/2" Durock but should I plan to put the stove feet on something like 1/4" steel plates (maybe 5" X 5") or ceramic tile to keep the feet from sinking into the Durock? Appreciate your ideas, thanks.

 

The Durock sheets will be cut to satisfy the IS 6" side and 18" front hearth requirements. They will lay right on top of the ceramic tile shown which is right on the concrete floor of this basement install.

 

I wouldn't put anything real heavy (like an IS) directly on Durock.
Can you have a small steel platform made, or perhaps just the pads to get your 1.5"?
With a concrete floor, no need for anything to achieve hearth clearance.

 

Hi Gark - only have some limited recent experience in working with Durock making my hearth, but given how it crumbled when cut, I wouldn't want to put anything directly on it that weighs as much as the Ideal Steel. Look forward to seeing install pics when it's complete.

 

The homeowners insurance rejected the last install which had the feet up on pads. They need a continuous platform beneath the stove for fear the stove will fall down off the pads. Go figure.

 

What a joke!

 

Probably because of all the earthquakes we have here in Michigan.
Well, then build a pad with Durock, and put what ever on top of it (like tile) to get the needed height. Wonderboard is sold in 1/4" thickness.

 

Interesting problem. I agree with the others that Durarock is not the most dense product and could be susceptible to compacting slightly. I think if you disperse the weight over a wide enough area using tile or steel of some kind, you should be ok. I bet USG might have something about the specifications on their website? You would almost have to pick it up and set the stove in its place versus rolling it up with a hand cart or dolly though.

For what it's going to cost you for Durarock, tile, grout, and trim, could you have a custom pipe fitting made with the offset? Sheet metal fab shops should be able to do this with the dimensions.

How are you going to trim out the edges of the Durarock?

 

How about chipping up the tile, making a wood frame and pouring a few bags of concrete to bring the height up. Re-tile as needed. It is too bad to have to go through all this for the small height difference.

 

I like this idea the best.
Seriously.
Labor cost? What's that? This is simple enough that even I could do it.

 

I've read about stoves creeping due to the heating cycle.

I like fishing's idea. Or maybe Woodstock could lengthen the legs enough for you?

 

I love the brainstorming going on here to solve a problem which at first glance seems fairly simple.
Although it is, it's the variety of useful solutions that intrigues me.
Love it.

 

Laying matching bricks down would look good too. Setting a wood form for concrete is a little bit of work to prevent bowing of the frame and leak out issues. Setting bricks would be pretty straightforward with no futzing around with trim tiles for the edges.

 

All good ideas. What would be involved to remove the existing tile first (which is 1/4" ceramic tile 8 X 8 squares grouted right onto the cement floor)? Please allow that I don't know how that is done. Bang away at it with a sledge hammer and masonry chisel? This would be prior to a concrete pour.
The responses have made me realize that Durarock may not be the best material to use. Since whatever is layered goes over non-combustable base, it has no need to provide any R value or K value, just strength. Perhaps three layers of 3/8" HardiBacker with tile on top would be stronger? Elsewhere it was suggested these layers should be attached together with "thinset". What exactly is thinset?
I'm considering the pour concrete approach, but wondering if removing the existing tile first would be quite a big project in itself.
Thanks for all the good ideas and please - keep 'em coming.

 

You can rent a demolition hammer from a big box store with a wide chisel to make work faster. It will be a labor saver. A small sledge with a wide chisel would work, but a lot of labor.

 

This would be ideal. I am in search of some form of red brick or paver which has a max thickness of 1.25 inches.

 

The hearth I made for the IS is: Stapping (air gap)--> plywood--> thinset--> durarock--> thinset--> durarock-->thinset-->slate tile. It has held the weight perfectly fine thus far. No cracks in the mortar at all.

 

Glad we ain't got codes on stuff like this here in this part of the world.