Questions for the group: Been planning an install of a basement stove for many years. Still hunting down a stove, but I'm slowly zeroing in on a unit. One big factor of the cost is the chimney pipe (maybe). Not sure why, but I've always though I would need to use triple wall ( I think its actually double wall but I've always called it triple wall - either way I like the sellkirk brand from Menards for the good price and performance) pipe for this interior run but it may not be necessary. Let me see if I can clearly explain my planned setup and please feel free to put in your two cents (good or bad)! Side note: Years and years ago, there was an old burner in this location that shared the flue with the original oil furnace. This original setup heated the house for 40 years but wasn't necessarily safe or "right" . I saw remanence of old asbestos boards uses as heat blocks.... So here's my setup. (see photos for reference). Burner will sit directly on concrete floor a clear distance from any combustibles. Unfinished basement with a joist height of approx 7-ft. Chimney will require 2 to 3 elbows to achieve the bends necessary to make it from the top of the stove to the flue collar. Chimney is already lined with approved stainless liner (I had this done when I rehabbed the house 3 years ago). I know exactly how to make this work but I do have some concerns and questions. My though has been to come off the stove with single wall, make the first bend then transition to triple wall through the gap that is somewhat near the wooden staircase stringer. There is a good 3-ft of clearance between the top of the pipe and the ceiling at this point so no concerns on that end. I though I would also fashion up some all-thread hangers to support the pipe from the ceiling down. Converting from single wall to triple wall then back into the wall thimble (flue collar) may be a challenge, or even impossible? Not to mention expensive. Could I get away with single wall from stove to chimney? What is the minimum clearance from single wall to combustibles? According to my current stove manual from 2020, I only need 18" from the ceiling (I have 36" clearance to ceiling). I should get an exact measurement, but the only combustible close to the pipe will be the stair stringer (as aforementioned). This measurement is approx. 18" but I will confirm tonight. Also, this is quite a horizontal distance. Not Ideal I know, but as long as I keep a slight fall to it I should be good right? Say 1/4" per foot? The stove will sit directly under the cold air return to the furnace which my furnace installer though was a great idea and suggested I but a large vent directly above the stove to pull in the rising heat. I guess my main concern is single vs triple wall pipe. Is it necessary? I want this to be as safe as physically possible. FYI - burning DRY wood down here only. I've got my 3 year plan going strong!!!!!
So your question is how to get from the stove to the existing lined chimney? You want doublewall stovepipe (not chimney pipe) for this...and use 45* elbows...first one at the stove, the second one as close to the chimney connection as you can get it...that eliminates as much of the "flat" pipe as possible. Doublewall stovepipe has a minimum CTC of 6". How tall is the chimney?
Singlewall stovepipe has a minimum CTC of 18", put that can be cut in half with appropriate shielding. And yes, 1/4" per ft is minimum...the taller your chimney the better it will work this way...I had a 10' run that had 3" of rise at one point...it was fine with a 27' chimney.
Yes, I'm wondering if double wall is necessary for this (assuming I have clearance for single wall stovepile) Chimney height is approximately 20-25 feet? The house is a 2 story so chimney goes from basement floor, through 1st floor and 2nd floor and exits at the highest.peak of my roof centrally.
Am I interpreting you right - you had a 10ft horizontal run?? (With appropriate fall) This makes me feel a lot better!
If you have clearance, no, not necessary, but, I would recommend it...it drafts better, and lasts longer as the inner layer is stainless steel...plus if you put in a section of telescoping pipe it makes cleaning much easier.
Yes...with 3" of rise...it worked fine, but my current setup is better...a flat pipe like that tends to collect soot/flyash more than a more vertical pipe.
Just to be clear, standard single wall steel stovepipe doesn't last too well in a basement install (typically)...2-3 seasons for me...I quickly tired of replacing it.
Not sure if your heat needs or the stove you are looking at but… I tried two new tube stoves in my basement. One cheapo Esw and one Drolet that literally says it’s a “heat beast” in the write up. Neither really heated the living area very well.
I am between either another Buck 74 (I have one upstairs on 1st floor now and it really pumps out some heat), or a Blaze King Princess. I'd prefer the Princess simply for the reduced wood consumption but convincing my wife that we NEED another wood burner ( I already have one in the garage, and one in the living room - both used regularly) has been a challenge. My local stove dealer has a Buck 74 demo unit on sale for a great price, but after all is said and one with a Princess tax rebate, it ends up about the same. A contributing factor to it all is what prompted me to ask the forum here about my chimney setup - do I need double wall or not? OBVISOULY I would never sacrifice safety to save a buck, but I also don't want to use it unnecessarily. My house is quite large, at 2,850ft sq. so I would not expect either of these choices to fully heat the entire house. Rather, the placement is right next to the basement stairs which would allow for a nice natural flow of heat upstairs, and also it would be directly below the main cold air return plenum which would help circulate through the entire house. Above all, I'm hoping to have my tile floors warm. With my current setup (woodburner on 1st floor located at a far end of the house), my living room is 85, the rest of the house is 70, except for the basement, which leaves the tile floors very very cold. Thanks for all of the replies. This would be my ..... let me see ... 6th stove install. I've done quite a few over the years at family friends houses and my own. Typically its quite simple but planning is key.
I don't think there is such a thing with double wall stove pipe...is just a question of a "good" or "good enough" install.
OK, I think you may be a little confused on terminology here. Maybe not. Maybe I'm confused. Double wall "stove pipe" is black stuff that is used to connect your stove to your chimney. Double wall "chimney" is the stainless stuff....also referred to as "class A". Both are made from stainless, but the stove pipe is painted black. Menard's sells both. If you already have a lined chimney with thimble, all you need is stove pipe (black stuff). I have both of these installed in my basement burner...bought from Menard's...and installed myself...so I'm pretty familiar with them.
I was kinda thinking that may be the case too. The doublewall stovepipe (not the class A chimney pipe) is generally steel on the outside and then the inner layer is stainless...at least the ones I am familiar with...and yes, I have also built a stove up chimney system using the Supervent stuff at Menards, I like it, good bang for the buck and seems to hold up long term just fine.
I'm not sure if the Buck is a cat stove? But pretty sure the BK is...just be aware that cat stoves can be miserly with wood when run on low...but also low heat output...if you want a lot of heat output (like how basement installs tend to be used) the wood usage will not be so miserly...more in line with a non cat stove actually. Just be aware that having a stove within 10 ft of a cold air return vent is not a "legal" install...per code, which I'm sure some reading this just got goosebumps and the hair on the back of their necks just stood up reading that word...but as I understand it, the negative pressure of the return air duct can cause issues with pulling smoke/CO from the stove...and some basement installs really struggle with reverse draft issues anyways, so I can see why it could be a real issue for some. As far as natural air flow circulation...the best setup I ever seen was a house that had 2 stairwells, 1 at each end of the house...the stove was by the one, and the one at the other end worked well as the "cold air return"...you could stand in the far stairwell and feel the air moving down...perfect setup! Most people aren't lucky enough to have a house with this setup though...now if a fellow was designing a new house...
I had originally looked at Woodstock before I purchased the tube stoves. I think I would have been very disappointed if I had forked over that cash. I’m sure there great stoves and all but I don’t think it would have worked for me without a ton of insulation.
