Anyone ever change a Toyota Car oil filter with that plastic housing?

Hello
These new paper oil filter is like the old one I had on the House oil tank! However the housing is all plastic and it may be on too tight!
I have not tried it yet, there are many tools for it but I got the OEM tool part # 71110A $27.95 for the chance it may work? Anyone have a little experience with this?

Here is a good video on how troublesome it can be!

 

No I haven't but I'll be watching this thread. I have a 2014 Camry, a 2015 Tundra, and my fiancé just bought a 2018 RAV 4. These vehicles are the only vehicles in my life that I havent changed the oil myself.

I do know my mechanic buddy told me that the genuine Toyota filter wrench is the only one to buy. Been meaning to get one and have him talk me through the process-although I know oil and filter would cost around $45 for my Tundra and I get it changed for $79 at the Toyota dealership-not sure if it is worth it-they rotate the tires as well. Can do that myself but I am getting lazy in my old age!

 

Hello
Well I was Successful !! To tell you the truth, I used my air wrench and 24 MM impact socket. I set it to loosen and put it it on to the oil filter fully. Pulled the trigger 2-3 times before it started to loosen, then it loosened right up!
If you do not have the OEM Toyota Steel cap socket and an air impact wrench then forget it!!

When I put it back, I used a regular wrench and just did it hand tight.

The old filter was very dirty!

All Done!

 

That's an odd arrangement.

My Audi, the newer fords, and FCA products at least have the socket " bolt" head on the housings. I like the filters like this, especially if they are on top of the engine.

 

I hate when they try to reinvent the wheel...what the heck is wrong with the classic spin-on filter?!

And FYI, BMW is responsible for some of the dumbest oil filter designs ever...

 

I havent really looked but if it is like the one on my audi or like the new fords and FCA, then I prefer it to the old canister.

 

I have changed those filters a lot. The correct tool is a must. If you take off the little round cap with the 3/8 square drive you can drain the housing with the little plastic funnel that comes with the filter and o rings. Some snap in others thread in. It sure does cut down on the mess. Make sure you lube up the new o rings with fresh oil that will help you get them loose next oil change. Oh when you do break the cap which has happened to me a few times you can get an aluminum one from Toyota which I think is better since it doesn’t get brittle with the heat cycles.

Even those cartridge housings with the hex head break easy enough the plastic gets brittle over time.

Have any of you seen the really neat plastic oil pan and plastic drain plug on the Ford 2.7 eco boost yet?

I saw a plastic oil pan on a Ford 3.5 eco boost the other day on a Navigator

 

I can see replacing that every other year or sooner. Either it will warp/crack or get smashed with our weather by Ice in the winter. Like plastic intake manifolds warping and cracking. With bed pans underneath the front ends, won't know there is a problem until too late. Course it does solve the rusting out from inside out that has been a plague for awhile now. Never been a advocate of extended warranties, but with the crazy shoe horn fits and the complexity they ain't a bad bet once past oem warranty.

 

My Powerstroke fuel filter has a plastic cover like that. They make a special tool for it, but I lost it. A pair of pliers spread to grab fins on opposite sides and then just turn with the body of the pliers works!

I definitely wouldn't want to deal with a plastic oil housing cover though. They really are making it harder and harder these days.

 

Yes they are. Just wait until the 3.5 eco boost owners need to replace the AC belt. Not only is it a PIA to get to with all of the plumbing for the turbos it is a stretch belt as well.

 

Got one stuck on wifey’s 2010 Matrix - what a royal pita! As someone said earlier wtf is wrong with the regular old screw on metal filters?

Anyways, I ordered a new one off Amazon and cut the stuck mofo off.
&&@)(****%%%

 

Who designs this stuff?

 

People that are way smarter and way cheaper than any of us

 

Pencil necks that want to leave their mark on the world.

 

IDK, I just changed the oil on my Audi with the top cartridge filter. That is simple and works great. As far as I know, it still has the original thermoplastic oil filter cap. I have never had to replace it.
If it weren't for the skid plate having to be removed, it should be super easy, but that had nothing to do with the filter housing.

All it takes is one non oiled and stuck old style canister filter and you'll see why they changed to the new cartridge ones.

 

I've never had one that wouldn't come off with my steel band tool that goes around the cartridge. I have three different sizes and have been doing this since I was a teenager.
I'm sure it happens but the steel cartridge seems to me to be the apex of the oil filter revolution.

 

I only ever had 1 epic battle with a cartridge filter...but had many with canister types...not a fan

 

They work, but I prefer to be able to instantly see what crud, if any was caught in the filter, without cutting the canister open.

I had one canister in a 5.0 fox body tbird that took me under the car and my buddy on the other side with 2 screwdrivers and a band wrench.

Granted that was after a "Free" oil change, so I'm sure the gasket was not oiled. But still.

 

My truck has the absolute best oil filter arrangement I've encountered. It's right where it should be, up front, on top. What about the mess when you pull the filter? Well, those Japanese engineers have that covered. There is a catch around the filter mount with a small drain that you simply place a used water bottle, etc to catch the drips. (don't forget to remove when finished ).

I'm not sure if this design was intentional or if it was a necessary evil to fit the V6 into the frame? Either or, I am thankful. IMO, this is how they all should be. The Toyota filters have an anti drainback valve, so the filter will hold oil even when inverted. I buy them by the case for $4 a piece and they come with new drain gaskets.



Edit: Not my truck, stock image. Mine is much cleaner in there!

 

Bought this today for the toyotas. Won't use it until spring though.