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Any Tips on a 230v AC Thru-The-Wall installation?

Discussion in 'The DIY Room' started by don2222, Jun 24, 2016.

  1. don2222

    don2222

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    Hi
    Got the stuff.
    Since cold air falls, it is being installed up high in the wall. The higher voltage motor starts easier so it should last longer than a 120 unit. Also has a nice grill on the wall sleeve to protect the coils. It comes with shims to slant the unit so water runs outside.
    I just cut a wall stud out and doing the 2x6 framing.
    Here are the units I looked at.
    WorkShop AC Unit - Portable, Slide out Chassis, Thru Wall or Window - Efficiency - What you prefer? | Firewood Hoarders Club
    Any install tips?
    See pic of unit, sleeve, wire, breaker and outlet.
    3rd pic shows stud cut and upper & lower framing in. Had to relocate existing outlet boxes an notch framing to insert existing wires
    Also added L brackets for support strength,
     

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    Last edited: Jun 24, 2016
  2. don2222

    don2222

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    Hello
    I got a little further along, but it is a tedious install and the instructions do not give all the needed information.
    The optional sleeve that you install first does make the job easier and the back grill reall helps a lot to protect the sensitive coils on the back of the unit. However it does say to mount the sleeve into the wall securely but does not give any screws to mount the sleeve into the wall and there are no holes in the sleeve where the mounting should occur! Luckily I had some truss head wood screws that worked very well.
    Home Depot
    Grabber #8 1-1/4 in. Philips Modified Truss-Head Wood Screws (5 lb.-Pack) 23365 at The Home Depot - Mobile
    I also shimmed the top of the sleeve and bolted that to the top 2x6 stud that I installed. The sleeve instructions do not say how much the sleeve should extend out of the wall on the inside but I did figure out that it should be even with the Sheetrock so I had it come out 1/2" beyond the wall stud,
    So all is done now except for the finish trim work and calling and insulating.
    No support bracket on the outside is needed since the sleeve is bolted securely to the 2x6 so it is a very clean looking install. See next to last pic!
    After caulking maybe some white trim would be nice. :)
    My next step is to wire in the 230 outlet so I can use it.
    The 230 volts is in!
     

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    Last edited: Jun 24, 2016
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  3. don2222

    don2222

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    Hello
    I just found some Velcro to hang the remote right under the heating thermostat.
    Also
    Some 120 vac units have slightly a higher EER but I think the 230 vac motors start easier and it does start and stop ALOT!!
    This 230 vac unit was much harder to get! I could have picked up a slide out chassis or window mount a lot easier! Also no Pain No Gain so I really believe I made the best choice and right now the shop is really DRY and COOL !!!!
     

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  4. don2222

    don2222

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    Got some white Azek 3/4 inch trim board
    Shop AZEK PVC Board (Actual: 0.75-in x 1.5-in) at Lowes.com
    and DAP white 40 year caulk right away this morning and sealed up the outside of the AC unit right as tight as a drum before it rains! :)

    For the final touch I used 100 White Color Putty for the recessed nail holes made by Color Putty Co, Monroe WI
    Color Putty Company, Inc. - Manufacturer of the highest quality colored oil-based and waterborne putties for woodwork, paneling, furniture

    Amazon - 3.68 OZ $3.19
    https://www.amazon.com/Color-Putty-Company-100-3-68-Ounce/dp/B003P4XK1E
     

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    Last edited: Jun 26, 2016
  5. ironpony

    ironpony

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    Being a supporting wall, once you cut the wall stud, that should of been a structural header.
     
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  6. don2222

    don2222

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    That is true, but in this case the beam is also supported by a ledger board bolted to the house because of the open deck above it. Therefore that one stud really does not have any real weight on it.

    I did run the unit over the weekend and I am glad I did not get anything less that 10K BTUs
    The temp outside was 90 and still not much insulation inside. So I had to run in the cool mode instead of energy efficient mode and then the temperature slowly started to come down from 77 to 72 inside. This room is on the south side so it does get hot in the late afternoon.
     
  7. don2222

    don2222

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    Hello
    Well, it has been good hot weather to test out this new LG Thru-The-Wall AC unit and it was not right!
    I have installed 2 pull out chassis units years ago but never a TTW unit so I followed the instructions to the letter! Then after almost a week, I noticed the foam shims to slope the unit failed!
    Now I Believe those shims may have been a bandaid fix so the company guys can Cover their A$$.
    After downloading other manufacturers sleeve instructions and pulling this unit apart, I found the only correct way to slope the unit is to "slope the sleeve." !!!

    Pic 1 - failed foam shim
    Pic 2 - Pull out the sleeve's shims at the top and remove all screws holding it in the wall!
    Pic 3 - Pull off bottom outside trim board and cut caulking all around outer sleeve!
    Pic 4 - Add new shims under bottom of sleeve and slope sleeve properly then put screws back in.
    Pic 5 - Assure top of sleeve is 1/2" from wall stud for proper sheet rock installation.
    Pic 6 - Add additional wood shims inside front of sleeve to keep front of AC unit from sagging down! Install side foam to keep outside warm air out of cool room!
    Pic 7 - Reinstall bottom outside trim board and caulk sleeve to outside trim boards and putty up new nail holes on bottom trim board!
    Pic 8 - All done again - reinstall interior plastic trim and see properly sloped unit!
     

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