I have watched several U-Tube videos on stacking and nothing has sunk in. Any recommended videos? Having trouble with end stack cribbing. I was at Shawn's place and just drawled over his stacks. He has to be the Picasso of stacking.
Good idea. That could possibly be in the works for 2018. I don't own a lot of woods for falling, But do know I have around 5 Ash trees that I can see from my back door that need to come down and some Black Locus that needs cleaned up. Since I am still working on the last Wood Fairy dump, these are not high on my priority list. One is gigantic. Could call my Wood Fairy, my son-in-law who works for a land clearing company, and have him bring out a load of logs for those that like running their saws.
I'm sure Backwoods will chime in, but from the pics I've seen, the consistency in the thickness of the splits used, is the key, or one of them. Sent from my SM-T280 using Tapatalk
Don't have a video but I start thinking about my stacks at the splitter. Consistent lengths and rectangular splits get set aside for cribbing the ends. A level and stable base is absolutely imperative. My stacks are on pallets that are 40" wide. I cut my wood 18" plus or minus. So I start with a 4" gap at the bottom and gradually work the two stacks together at the top. I tie the stacks together with a 36-40" 1" sapling every few feet and just below the top so the stacks are held together. If you have one side of the stack facing the sun, lean that side away from the sun as it will shrink faster and lean toward the sun over time. If it starts plumb, it is more likely to fall over. Backwoods Savage and bogydave have some good stable stacks. Trial and error got me where I am today. If you make a mistake, learn from it and don't repeat it. I chose not to do weed control to give the bumble bees something to feed on. Also, I support the outside edges of the pallets but not the middles. As the pallets sag, the two rows are naturally pushed together.
What? You mean to say you were at our GTG and never took the time to look at the stacks?! This first picture doesn't show you in the crowd but I know you were close by. The wood stack in the background was stacked (at least most of it was) during that day and headed by Gary_602z. I think brenndatomu and Frank and Beans were 2 others involved in that stacking and perhaps a few others. Thank you fellas. These were already stacked but I know you had to have walked past them several times that weekend. There really is no secret to stacking and it really does not take long to do. They also tend to be very strong as in 60 years or so of wood stacking I've had only one fall over. The main thing is to stack as level as possible but still you can still stack some unlevel and it will turn out okay. As you can see I tend to like the rectangular pieces for cribbing the ends but they are not totally necessary. You can tell that Gary didn't have the rectangle pieces and those stacks are very nice. Some ask if I build the ends then fill in between but I tend to build the ends as the stack grows and find I can usually make them stronger this way. In addition, if you use kindling, filling in the cribbed ends with kindling is a great way to stack it. Good luck! btw, I'm not sure if walt will have any wood to stack but if so we can work together that weekend in October if you wish. Shawn Curry will be there and can probably teach you better than I can. He is good.
I dont have any great advice on stacking, some members here are fanatical about their stacking. Im not i just kinda throw up the ricks and hope for the best.
I have been leaning the stacks towards each other, but haven't considered the sun. Consistent thickness is what I was thinking when I started a new stack today. My splits are 16" and each crib has 3 splits. I have been making sure the 2 outside splits are the same thickness and the middle split a lesser thickness. When I was looking at my stack today I got to thinking, all 3 splits the same thickness? Maybe the error in my ways. I am in a trial and error phase now.
Yes sir, bookends. The racks I have are 4 ft wide 6 ft long , at the end of the six foot Pallet, the vertical support is attached, the other end is the same, equaling a 12 ft long rack, in which the horizontal pallets are not attached in any way, so, what you have is bookends, you get it now?
I was using T-Posts for years. I do use them when I bring the wood up to the house for the winter. My winter burn set up consists of T-Post at the west end with a section of stockade fence tied to them. Portable cattle panel are used for the bottom support. Gates and panel are used for the side supports. Not very economical, but all the material is left over from when I use to raise cattle.. No problem if the stacks attempt to fall. Works well but not recommended. It would cost over $600 to construct it out of new materials today.
I've got some cribbed and some on "racks" I built. Like some of the other FHC gallery has said square splits are always nice but not necessary if you are going for perfect square cribs. I try to use what's in the pile and there is a bit of trial and error with the pieces, but all said and done they seem to lock in fairly solid and haven't fallen yet . Here's a couple in the background my wife did pushing 5' high (and a bunch of splitting to do someday ) Ignoring the cutting crib look in the back the racks from the left and cribbed ends on the right again almost 5' high with the outermost stacks leaned in a touch haven't lost it yet. As far as speed and simplicity is concerned the racks are awesome as well as the stake/t post method it all depends on what you feel like
Try to keep your stacks level. Don't overdo it, pace yourself. Some prefer to keep nice and straight stacks. And some stacks are functional.
P.S if I get 3 seconds to split that pile and stack it maybe I'll video my sorry excuse of a stacking attempt and make a U tube out of it
