alternative stove pipe

I will ask the experts here. Since I mentioned the FHC at work I was asked a question. I honestly could not answer him and am now curious. Can stove pipe be too thick? He is going to take the guts out of an old grain auger and use it as the pipe in his garage for the wood stove chimney. Will it being thicker than single wall cause any problems? I estimate the wall thickness around 1/16" to 1/8" steel.

 

I used 1/8 stainless in my barn. Dont burn but four or five times a year out there tho. Pipe heats up quick enough i think and gives off lots of heat yet. Its about 10' and then 6' of double wall and then 3' of class A through the roof. Pre-epa russo fireview is the stove. No creosote to speak of. Oh and i start it with top down fires.

 

If it is the building I'm thinkin the pipe would be about 18' or so and gunna go thru about 6' at the top of those cement square things with circles in the middle to go thru the roof.

 

Any reason u went stainless and howd u go thru the roof. I'm jealous of the both of ya gettin a heated outbuilding to work in.

 

The stainless just happened to be readily acquired. Some rubber type boot, silicon maybe? Was only $40.
No no no. Not a heated outbuilding by any means. There is a heat source in the outbuilding. But you have to be right in front of it to feel the effects. The framing you see behind it is nowan insulated room for the wood boiler. That you can be jealous of. Still a work in progress tho as i collect more materials.
Hound craigslist and make it happen!

 

I have friends that have used 6" well casing! I don't see how a stove pipe could be "too thick".

 

The auger pipe is painted from about 1958 no zink on it but a lot of faded red paint and rust. I suggested to get the pipe sand blasted or build a big outdoor fire and try to cook the paint off before indoor use. As far as the thick factor I was unsure if it would be a smoke belching pig with pipe taking longer to draft right because it takes longer to get to temp or would it drip creosote by being cool for longer time on startups.

 

Back a couple posts CoalReaper said he went thru roof with rubber boot and silicone to go thru the roof???? Am I not following...wouldn't the single wall pipe burn up a rubber boot and silicone?

 

Nope. Thats the class A through the roof part. Boot was rated pretty high thi. I will try to find a link.

 

This be it. Easir than i thought it was going to be.
http://www.pipebootexpress.com/Square_Base_Flashing_Red_Silicone.htm

 

Ok I'm pickin up what yur layin down now.

 

Just looked at the link and they look neat. Do you just cut off layers til it fits over ur pipe?

 

Yessir. The aluminum border conformed to the corrugations in the roof easily. A bead of caulk and some sheet metal screws and done. The hardest part was getting the oxy-acetylene tanks on the roof to burn the hole. Haha

 

I have 2 wood stoves in my shop.
- One has the stove pipe outside & is is the same type of painted, 8" auger casing as OP mentioned.
- The other is 1/8" thick 12" dia. pipe which goes up through the roof. Around 30" from the roof I reduced it to where I could put a 6" double walled pipe on it. I used a red/hi temp silicone boot similar to the one previously mentioned. A layer of red silicone form a gasket was applied before screwing it down to the roof.

Both work well. I have a box fan on low behind it the chimney which goes through the roof to help heat the shop.

I used a recessed light hole saw, 6-5/8" dia., to cut the hole in the roof & through the side of the shop for the stove pipes to exit though.

One of these days I will find where I put my camera down at so I can post pictures.

 

Hole saw would have been much easier for me.

 

There is a way it could be too thick, and I'm surprised to not see a mention yet here- weight.

Some way, that pipe has to supported up top, unless the stove has been heavily reinforced to take the load.

 

Good point. I am unsure of if it is a top vent or an out the back vent on the stove. I have never heard of any weight limit on pipe on a stove before it wants to crush down on it or if rear vented before it either tips the stove back or pulls the pipe out of the back of the stove and rips the $#¡+ out of the roof and look out below when it falls inside. Any one have this happen b4 or know what weight to stay under?

 

Both of my shop chimney's rest on the ground & have black stove pipe connecting them to the stove. There are angle iron supports going from the pipes to roof purlins to stabilize the upper portion of the chimney pipes.