Last night before going to bed I filled the stove full of tulip poplar. I let the fire burn a bit at wide open damper. The flue temp was in the middle of the good range and the stove was cruising around 550 F. I turned the damper all the way down but the secondaries were burning well. When I awoke this morning I had good coals but my door was rather dirty. Is this normal? Is this a result of not enough air wash to keep the glass clean? I moisture tested the wood and the readings were 10% near the centre (after splitting a piece) and 11% out towards the bark which makes since since it can pick up moisture from the air; the wood is covered. Most of the door "crap" burned away today during normal operation. I sent an email to England Stove Works about the smoking into the room but never got an answer although they have spammed me twice in my email; this is new this month and I don't like any company spamming my email. I am still not certain I have enough draft on the stove even with the added three feet of chimney.
The pattern is different, but fairly normal when the air gets turned down for a long burn. What do you mean, they spammed you? I get mail from them every once in a great while telling me about the latest gasket kit sale, but it's not spam.
Spam is any unrequested emails about any products, sales, etc where I don't agree to get those emails. I never told England Stove Works they could send me these emails. Now, I know that Bush said that we are automatically opted in when giving an email address but I refute that; I call it spamming me. Now of course I can request they stop.
Understood; it does look ugly on the door though. I was concerned that I might not be doing something correctly. The door was too hot to try and clean it so I just left it.
That would be an odd pattern for my stove. Normally the build-up would be just in the bottom corners. N/S load im guessing? How close was the wood to the glass? Closing off the primary air will shut off the airwash for the glass. You might just need to leave it open a smidge.
It's possible it might need a touch more air, or you never know if a log shifted late in the burn and somewhat blocked the air by the window. All you can really do is get a load running in the day like you would for overnight, get it settled in, and absolutely leave it alone for the duration of the fire. You should start forming some opinions on if it's set right from that.
You're probably doing fine, but when you say you split and tested with the MM, did you perform this at room temp?
No, I split it outside and tested the moisture outside. So I need to make sure the block of wood is at 20C before testing? I guess I could bring in a piece tonight and then test it tomorrow.
Maybe that stain is normal for the Madison. The 30NC makes a v-shaped pattern on the door when turned down low. I am new at this as well, and have operated the 30 as you described. It worked great, good heat and burned all night. After 3 weeks, the chimney cap was plugged. So now I will try a bit more air. I have no problem with smoke into the house as long as my cap is clean. I can tell it is plugging up when smoke starts into the house when the door is opened. My height is about 17-18 feet, floor to cap. I don't know of any other Madison operators here, who could offer better advice than me, a noob with a 30-NC.
"I turned the damper all the way down but the secondaries were burning well." They would burn well for a while but turning the damper down all the way is not usually the best way to run a stove. Fire still needs air.
I brought a piece in last night and just now split it and tested. The highest reading on the wood was 12.3 %.
I asked before about all night burns because I read where others on here does as well. Having to build a fire each morning from start without coals is not as nice as just throwing some small splits on hot coals and seeing the flames start immediately.
Yes but most everyone, you see pics of stoves stuffed to the gills, and 99 out of 100 pics aren't of poplar splits. You will get there tho, so try to be patient.....
It is always difficult to take blanket statements especially when it comes to the wood stoves. Too many factors involved but the principles are still all the same. For example, one might have a really tall chimney and good surroundings plus great firewood and have a super draft so has a problem holding the fire down. Another might have a short chimney and totally different wood so not the super draft. This is why they put draft controls on stoves so that each can run the stove according to the install and according to the wood being burned and the amount of heat required of the stove. Also, in some areas, like perhaps Denver where inversion is a big factor they will have to do things differently than those up on the mountaintop. Conclusion is that I would experiment with your stove but for sure I would give it more draft.