441 tank handle AV mount broken

The saw was cutting to the right regardless of chain.
I had taken everything apart for a cleanout and noticed the front AV mount tab on the tank handle was broken - allowing the bar tip to torque to the right if pressure was placed on the bar.

(this is a picture of a new tank arrow pointing to tab)


I found a screw in the junk bin tapered the hole and ran it in.
Why would Stihl create a casting hole and not reinforce it?
There are a few tanks on flee-bay that appear to be worn in this area and or epoxied.

 

Mine was broken too, I drilled the hole out slightly and ran one a spare bolt stihl uses to mount the 3/4 wrap to the tank. Worked great.

 

So I'm not the only one. For the life of me I could not get the entire tank handle loose from the saw even with both lateral AV mounts off I just reamed the hole to accept a tapered pan head - probably from some piece of chevy SS trim.

Welcome aboard Gunn - glad to have another contributor

 

Husky s are common to strip out holes all over the saws..no idea why they dont have a. Better system. Guess there just not designed to be beat on.

Every saw I have seen that my loggers use...all are husky. From the 365,372,576 all those saws have stripped recoil housing holes. Maybe there all big he man lugs and strip them tightening them too much?? But this is on multiple saws on many crews. And on saws that are only a year or 2 old.

 

Thats a good find. I would have ended up filing the chain and buying new loops before thinking to look there.

This just start happening or from day 1?

 

Didnt you just get this 441 basod?

 

I bet he had already checked and rechecked that.

 

Yup, hence my question. I never cut circles but put at most 2 cords in my short time with that saw. Crazier things have been overlooked.

I am impressed that 2 members were able to figure out the problem and fix it.

 

Problem: front av buffer mount snapped off.


I found a spare screw that Stihl uses to attach the wrap handle to the tank assembly.


I drilled the broken av mount hole so it's slight smaller than the diameter of the screw. I didn't want to risk splitting the av boss anymore than it was already.



Shot of it mocked up and installed.

 

No problems here bud - So happy with this saw
Only noticed it after blasting it with air, saw the mount fluttering around in the recess

It could have happened on my end - who cares it was an easy fix, and probably would have broken some day anyways.

Part of me wonders with the single saw dog mounted to the power head if it doesn't increase the torque on the power head further stressing that mount.

The break was almost identical to the pictures posted above. The plastic piece was still in the rubber mount and had a screw from some chevy trim laying in my junk bin ran it in - easy peasy.

 

Maybe @MasterMech or one of the other builders can provide some insight on how to remove the tank handle correctly - for my own future reference.
I had all the AV mounts removed and could not figure how the center AV pins could ever clear the casing halves?

 

Dex if you were talking to me...I was simply asking a question. I dont remember where or if I ever knew where he got this saw? I was thinking it was used but didnt know of he bought it at a dealer?

I also have no idea if the saw was used how old it was.

I never meant to make it sound like someone sold him a knowingly broken saw.

That comment was more like "what a piece of junk, or a bad design" for it to already be broken.

I honest wasnt trying to get folks mad at each other. There is no way I can keep straight who buys what saw from who. I dont remember or know those things.

 

The trick I figured out was to disconnect all av buffers and springs, remove handle, disconnect the throttle cable, pull those av plugs, and then with the saw resting on its bumper spike ( aka muffler down) twist the hand grip 90 degrees while pulling down away from crankcase. Those nubs on the gas tank assembly were a pita until I figured it out.

 

Tried all the same here except having it nose down and the handle removed. Its got to be near zero clearance to get those nubs out - I didn't want to force it and break something else

 

No need to force it. If you twist it just right it surprisingly flies apart. It's a damm rubix cube trying to figure it out at first.