372xp x-torq rebuild?

So this is a 2012 372xp x-torque that had the connecting rod bearings blow up. Destroyed the piston and cylinder.

I've got a meteor piston and cylinder kit and a Hyway crankshaft and SKF bearings, seals and gaskets ready to go.

I finally washed the parts using my STIHL parts washer and now I'm wondering if these scratches from the bits of needle bearing flying all over the place should be of concern.

You can most definitely feel the scratches with your fingernail and even after washing it there were specks of magnesium. I was able to wipe it clean but I wonder if this is going to cause an issue down the road.

huskihl BuckthornBonnie M2theB wudduya guys think?

I think it should be ok. Perhaps I can send with 250 grit just to make sure there aren't any big chunks that might pop off.

Thanks in advance as always.

 

It's also nice that the 372xp has positive stops so you don't have to put the oil pump in to know how far the bearing needs to go.

 

I’ve haven’t dealt with a case inner like that before
I think as long as you can get a good interference fit on the bearing and the seal surfaces are smooth, I wouldn’t think the dings in the case will hurt it. May be picking up a tiny volume on the primary compressor, but not enough to worry about.

 

Thanks appreciate your input.

 

I'm digging into my 2004 372xp. Crank bearings are shot, connecting rod on crank feels weird too. Piston, jug and wrist pin seem fine. I thought it was straight gassed, but had plenty of oil film in low end. I already bought the OEM topend.

I buggered the crank (mag side) out of frustration so I need a new crank regardless, bearings and seals. Any idea of someone here who sells OEM (non-chicom) cranks, seals and bearings? Thanks.

 

I've ordered from them before. You need to look up exactly what you have.

Husqvarna Equipment Parts, 2+ Millions Genuine Parts In Stock | AHUPD.com

 

Thanks, checking them out now.

 

Yes, and takes conventional 6202 bearings.

 

Yep, the dings are fine unless chips break off. I’ve built many saws with case damage worse than that and have had no issues. Yes to sanding and smoothing, just be mindful of that paint/powder coming off too much. I do not paint the cases and haven’t had any powder coated.
I don’t flip or sell saws, though… just fix them and run the heck outta them.

 

Decent Husky dealers will probably have those seals in stock. OEM or Nachi (or other name brand) C3 6202 bearings are the way to go.
New cranks are expensive. There were changes to the cranks in the series but I believe (?) they can all be used interchangeably. I’ve only built up three or four of this series, though.

 

Are the OEM nylon caged?

 

Depending on the stock and manufacture date, maybe. I would double check with the distributor and/or verify with someone who has recently ordered some with that particular part number.
Nachis are steel caged and work very well.

 

Magnesium won’t hurt the motor. That being said, wipe it off, spray it off, blow it off.. whatever you can do to get rid of it.

Make sure the bearings are still tight in the bore. I always red loctite my bearings on a rebuild. But it’s not for everyone. Takes some practice to make sure the cases are hot enough so you don’t have a bearing half installed and stuck there

 

They are now.
I’d get Nachi 6202 c3 shielded bearings from eBay and pop the shields out. They have metal retainers

 

Ordered!

 

The SKF 6202 bearings I got are steel caged with rivets.

Here's a pic of each side.

 

Thanks for everyone's input.

So I went ahead and lightly sanded the inside of the crankcase then brought the halves inside to wash with soap and water.

Went to install the PTO side first and did not get the case hot enough. Mistake #1. More of those in a minute. That resulted in me tapping the bearing in more than I wanted to but luckily it went in ok.

Then I used the oem assembly tool to pull the crank in and stupid me got the connecting rod pinched against the case. NOT GOOD. Ended up gouging the case but luckily again, not to the point of no return....I hope. I was able to tap the crank once and back it out....except the case was still warm enough that now the bearing came out too. But because I had pinched the rod I couldn't use the OEM separator tool to push the crank tool out.

It looks like there was enough meat left that this shouldn't be an issue but obviously it would have been ideal not to damage the case. After unpinching I pulled the bearing and the crank back in with the assembly tool and rotated the crank and gently filed the case where the damage occured.



Used 1184 gasket maker on both sides of the case. The flywheel bearing went in way easier. No issues pulling the cases together.

There's the damage I caused smh. Several lessons learned. OEM assembly tool ($25 on ahupd.com btw) was well worth the money too.

Yeah this saw is going back to the tree service but I'm gonna test it for leaks for sure.

The crank rotates smooth and no up and down play on the connecting rod so fingers crossed I didn't send the rod. I think it will be obvious if I did once I put the piston and cylinder in.

 

I’ve dinged up a case like that while pulling in the crankshaft and not watching the rod. On Stihls, I always pull the clutch side through first. The rod doesn’t interfere with much on that side until it’s really close to bottomed.
The 371/372 series has the deeper well and therefore puts the rod at risk earlier in the process. I sometimes use a long dowel or my hand to center the rod during the pull cycle.
The case gasket and 1184 will seal that up. Give the case screws some blue loctite and send them in proper.

 

Case temps-
Lots of opinions on this, but I’ll say what works for me. I use a dedicated toaster oven set to 350deg. I flip the case many times and let the mag soak in heat and expand. It’s usually a ten minute process. I used to take a temp reading each time with the IR gun but stopped after a dozen or so saws and not trusting the temps. I go by feel and get it very hot without blistering the powder/paint. All huskies and Stihl flywheel side cases usually are good to go. Stihl’s with the steel insert on the PTO side (most pro series?) make take a little more direct heat at the pocket with either extra time in the oven or a heat gun directly pointing at the pocket. I hate getting a bearing stuck (been there before) so now I go with more heat.

 

I think everyone who has ever done bearings on a saw has made that mistake heh heh. I was paying attention to it at first as well.......until I wasn't.

Yes sir that's what I did. Alternating criss-cross tightening of the bolts with some 243 Loctite (supposedly better than the standard 242 since this can come in contact with oil). I ended up fumbling around and grabbing the first thing I saw which was a wooden chopstick I had lying on the bench I had used as a sanding block for the muffler port of the ms660 cylinder.

Yeah I definitely got the "don't-want-to-get-it-too-hot-but-ended-up-not-getting-it-hot-enough" problem. I will do better next time.

I have another 372xp xt that was the first Husky I looked at that was leaking oil out of the top of the case right under the muffler. I'll get me a second chance there.

Man I just love reading about saw rebuilds. So interesting. Thanks for sharing.