372 stalling out

Seeking the collective wisdom here for my low hour 372. It seemed a bit high strung so I turned out the high screw until it would four stroke out of the cut and max out at a safe 12800. Seems good, but now once warmed up and in between cuts when set down and idling, it will slow down and cut out. Should I turn the low screw in until it cleans up and call it good? Pic added because pics are good.

 

That’s what I’d do. Turn the low in 1/4 and see if that keeps her running.

 

It's flooding, lean the L screw out. But still has a crisp acceleration when you snap the throttle. Too much it will bog and slow to rev. You want that sweet spot between flooding out at idle and bog off idle.

 

I agree with the advice given above.
Does it clean up in the cut pretty quick or does it take a while?

 

I will also say there is a possibility that you might have to adjust the idle but I don't think you will. It will slightly pick up RPM on e your L needle is tuned right. But you might need to bump the idle down depending on if your L changes your idle speed. If anything you may have to bump the idle speed down a tad...but I think you may be fine

 

Make sure the intake boot flap isn’t rolled over. Donny Walker has been finding 1 out of 4 from the factory that way, causes a similar issue. His YouTube video shows in detail how to check/fix it…

 

What makes you think it is flooding? Is it because he richened up the high side?

Reason I ask, is because I have seen the cause of dying on idle to be either flooding, or the opposite, not enough fuel. I just have to try one way to see if it works, if not, I go the other way

 

No. It makes me think that because if the L needle is too far out. If it starts fine will idle a little bit and even off idle be fine but if you set it down and 5-10 or more seconds later it cuts out . In my experience it's usually cause the L is set too rich or too far out and it causes the saw to load up and cut off.

That's why I said what I said. I don't think it has anything to do with the H needle. If he turned it till it fourstrokes wide open out of cut and it also cleans up in wood that's properly tuned.

 

It’s an X-Torq, they tune funny being strato, mine has never idled correctly since new. I stumbled on to Donny’s video last week and as soon as I get to it, the carb is coming off to check the divider.

 

“Until it four strokes?

what does that mean. Not a lot of 2-stroke experience here.

 

When you rev the saw up (properly tuned one) it will be a clean rev sound and once it tops out in rpm it shouldn't sound clean or like it's missing or burpling as some people call it. Sounds like it's hitting every fourth stroke not every other stroke like normal. If it sounds clean and like it's reving to the moon when you pin the throttle wide open NOT in a cut it's way to lean and you will burn the saw up or score it. It should burple or "four stroke" and then when you put it in the cut and load it up it should clean up and just sound like a clean reving two stroke. It's something that's easier to hear than describe. I'm sure there some YouTube videos where the mic is just not obliterated by sound. I have a few saw videos but I doubt you can hear it in them as there just filmed with a phone.

You can hear it by holding the throttle open and adjust the H screw in and out. If you turn it to lean it will rev to the moon lean, be careful and don't do it to much or long as it will score. If you go to rich it just will bog way down. The four stroking is in between those two.

 

Only problem is on an X-Torq it has a limited coil, (unless he replaced it with a non limited) so it won’t rev to the moon. Hitting the rev limiter sounds close to 4 stroking, but not exact. On a limited coil it’s easier to tune the H with a tach.

 

Appreciate the responses. I’ve had saws ten years and never needed to touch the screws so it’s good to hear I’m on the right track. I would always rather be out cutting than in the garage tinkering, but when something is off, I need it resolved. There isn’t a small engine shop around here I would trust over the knowledge of this group!

To answer a couple questions from above, it does clean up quickly in the cut or with a quick tap on the throttle, the trouble really shows up when I set the saw down to reposition some work and you can hear it blubber and drop revs. Also, saw is bone stock so that’s a good point about the coil limiting the potential for over revving. My adjustments up to this point have been done using a digital tachometer with idle set to 2700 and maxing out at just under 13000. 13600 rpm seems a little extreme for a saw I plan on having for at least 20 years.

 

Late to the game here, but that def sounds like it's loading up on idle (too rich on the L side). Just have to find the perfect middle ground between rich blob-blob-blob stall and lean bleem-bleem-bleem stall.

 

If I remember right don't you have a video of this on YouTube? Basically a saw tuning video.

Like he says the sound is kind of hard to describe and know exactly what your listening for without .much experience messing with two strokes. And like I said most videos on YouTube the sound is going to over power the mike and not let you hear anyway.

 

This is a decent one for audio quality.

 

Yes to the above responses with an emphasis on cleaning the air filter, filling with fresh fuel, warming up before adjustments, and keeping these saws below the recommended rpm. They can and will go fast, but their pistons are quite robust and benefit from conservative tuning in the long run. MasterMech’s vid is great except for the unlimited coil on this series (blue, sometimes stamped with rpm limit). Tachs go nuts when you’re over that spec.
I tune like MasterMech except I use a tach to set the max below the rev limiter (13,000ish) and the tweak it while putting it in wood.

 

It does sound like it’s loading up a bit. Start with a good air filter clean and the make slight adjustments to the L (in, clockwise) and see if that helps.