In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

2005 GMC SRS read/Reset

Discussion in 'The DIY Room' started by stuckinthemuck, Jan 14, 2019.

  1. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    Got a 2005 GMC Duramax with the airbag light on. The truck hasn’t been in an accident. It was parked for 3 months with The batteries removed while I was away. Prior to firing it up, I replaced the supply and return lines from the fuel tank to the engine as they were rusted and leaking. Also replaced the fuel cooler. Fun job to do in the driveway in NH in January. After that, I reinstalled the batteries prior to hooking up the electrical connections under the left rear of the bed and fired it up to check my work on the fuel system. I’m thinking that the failure of one of the 4 connections in the back (due to not being installed yet) caused the failure of the SRS self test and activated the holding circuit for self test failure. Short of going to a dealer, does anyone know a good scan tool that reads SRS codes on the 2005 GM products? And can I reset the SRS with the same tool? Tried a Bosch 1300 which didn’t read the SRS. Any insight from one of our resident mechanics would be helpful. Thanks.
     
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  2. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    Hey Eric VW Who are our resident mechanics?
     
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  3. Well Seasoned

    Well Seasoned Administrator

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    stuckinthemuck, this foxwell unit has decent reviews, looks like it'll do what you need it to. Good luck

     
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  4. saewoody

    saewoody

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    I have this tool. It will do the job. I use it on my GM trucks, as well as other vehicles. This happens to be an excellent deal right now. Also, if you have any technical schools near you they would probably do this for you.
    IMG_6487.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  5. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    stuckinthemuck, I wish there was a way to build groups of members’ names that could be tagged, like Moderating has....
    Then I could add names as I go along...
    In the meantime, I’ll summon a few names that come to mind....
    Horkn
    amateur cutter
    And some other present and former owner diesel members...
    TurboDiesel
    bobdog2o02
    Mwalsh9152

    Anyone else? Feel free to jump in...:yes:
     
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  6. dall

    dall

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    i have a tech 2 clone with gm program i can send you to use
     
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  7. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    dall stepping up:yes::yes:
     
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  8. 343amc

    343amc

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    I have an 05 Silverado (half ton gas engine, but might be close enough from the SRS standpoint) and had the same problem with the airbag light on. Drove it home with no problems, next morning the airbag light was on. The issue ended up being corroded connectors between the airbag sensor and the wiring harness.

    The shop I took it to replaced the connectors on both sides. If I remember right it was $125 for diagnosis and repair. That was 40000 miles ago and no issues since.
     
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  9. Rope

    Rope

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    Corrosion on the connectors. I had s problem on my ‘01 duramax which was the drivers side top of the wheel well has the fuse box. The Maine salt had corrroded all the connections on the bottom of the box. All the way around that you could see looked clean/no corrosion. Underneath a different story.
     
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  10. Well Seasoned

    Well Seasoned Administrator

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    Nice! :yes:
     
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  11. tree killer

    tree killer

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    Pull up the drivers side sill plate and strip the harness under it. Big corrosion problem there from the getting in and out constantly . Quick and easy start. Airbag harnesses have twisted pairs for the harness and should be soldered.
     
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  12. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    Hey all. I have been negligent in providing an update. I ended up buying the tool that Well Seasoned recommended. The Foxwell NT630 Elite OBD II. It took a bit to figure out how to navigate the screens. according to my shop manual it was supposed to narrow down which zone was causing the problem. I ended up pulling a code that indicated there was a problem with the impact sensor which is mounted under the radiator a bit to the right of the centerline of the truck. Bought the part for about $75, replaced the old one and the system tested good. So all in about $215 and I have a new tool. Thanks to everyone for the recommendations and information and especially to dall for offering to send me his tool to use. Here’s a pic of the part that needed to be replaced. Once again FHC to the rescue!!!

    10EF7A70-F5F1-4209-B870-FFBD68673D1B.jpeg
     
  13. chainsawsoldier

    chainsawsoldier

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    I have an ‘05 Chevy 3/4T Duramax with 250K. I have had numerous lights come on, and 99% of the time, corrosion is to blame. Coca-Cola, emery cloth, and solder are the normal tools that I use. I had an airbag light on for a while, left the batteries unhooked for a weekend, and the code disappeared. The worst problem I had was bleeding the brakes- I had to have my cousin hook up his big diagnostic computer to run a brake bleed cycle several times when the brake line that runs over the top of the fuel tank split wide open(glad the trailer was empty). If the foxwell scanner can do the bleed cycle, I might have to get one.
    Charles
     
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  14. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    Any of you with an 05' GMC duramx get vapor locking?
     
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  15. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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  16. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    Got that right now. Had to reuse a fuel filter gasket in a pinch. Now if the truck sits more than a day, I have to hit the primer pump a few times.. just replaced the bleeder screw, so that should be okay.

    chainsawsoldier i believe the foxwell can do the bleed cycle for the ABS but don’t quote me on that.
     
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  17. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    Thanks Tim! That's what mine does. I'll start with a new bleeder screw and o ring, I chewed up the plastic screw pretty good last time anyway, all I had was my mini leatherman... Other gaskets on there I would have to take it to the shop, but it only happens once every other year, I conveniently forget about until it happens again the next year or so.
     
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  18. Rope

    Rope

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    I was losing prime on my 06, I had to change out the base for the filter. There was a crack on the block side of the hand prime. A $250 part and 20 minute job.
     
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  19. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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    They make a brass bleeder screw for $20ish. I cracked my plastic one. Might have cross threaded it.. need to pick up a brass one at some point.. replaced with $3 plastic part this time..
     
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  20. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    I'm looking at a brass one and this aluminum one below, not sure. The message board TurboDiesel quoted also had some messages about o'rings, the red ones being better. They are both the same price. Any thoughts?

     
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