1999 Dodge Caravan rack and pinion removal...need help

Hey guys, just a quick question for any mechanically inclined people.

Helping my father work on his beater Dodge van, and he is replacing the rack and pinion, the whole unit. Now, we've almost got it to the point of removal, except for one roll pin? that keeps the unit attached to the splined shaft that comes out the bottom/goes through the firewall below the steering wheel column.

Is there something we're missing? I'm not much of a mechanic at all, and I can't see how we would be able to hammer or press that pin out in it's location.

Any thoughts or advice appreciated.

 

Mark the shaft and turn the wheel to a position where you can remove the pin. Then turn the wheel back to center before disconnecting the shaft.

 

I'm trying to picture this one... Sure there isn't a bolt inside on the floor under the pedals? They do make a pin remover for some of these, but I prefer a stubby screwdriver with the end ground to a pin punch. They work well.

 

It is a roll pin I have a tool much like the one in the picture but you can knock it out with a hammer and patience

 

Steering Shaft Roll Pin Remover/Installer | SPX Miller Special Tools | 6831A

That's the tool. You see how the front of the pin tool is cut at 2 diameters? That's how my screwdriver punch is set up so the tip goes in the pin.

 

Gmule... You the man. Lol. Im sure I've done later caravans... Are they bolts?

 

Yes some of the earlier ones have bolts as well. Those engineers gotta keep coming up with new ideas to remain employed or to save money. I roll pin is probably .003 cents cheaper than a bolt

 

I hear ya. Literally every day my bay neighbor threatens the lives of every automotive engineer....

 

I have this cute little punch made for the roll pin for Subaru drive axles. It makes it easy when working on the passenger side axle around the exhaust system

 

After some head scratching, we ground down a close fitting piece for a punch, and a whole schwack of 1/4" extensions hooked together. Turned the wheel a half turn, and through the hole in the floor. It popped out easy. Kind of embarrassed that I asked, but I sure couldn't see that pin coming out from underneath.

Thanks all.

 

No reason to be embarrassed asking questions is how we learn. I do this kind of work for a living and I still learn something new everyday.

 

I ask the old guys at work how to do almost everything... Lol.

Every once in a while I can share a few short cuts to pay them back.

Just glad you got it!

 

Replacing the timing chain on a Chevy Traverse.

 

Wow...no thanks. Makes our project seem trivial though.

 

Lol. I think that's step one for almost all repairs on that vehicle.

 

If you don't mind, I'd like to dovetail off of this thread and and ask a question about my 1995 Dodge Caravan ES. It's the 3.3 and I recently had an issue with the brakes.. Left the parking brake down 2-3 clicks and smoked the right rear...It was a sight to see and glowing red.. So, limped it home, removed the hardware and ran it for a little bit without the right rear.. Recently rebuilt both of the rear drum brakes (including pistons) and replaced the parking brake cable to the right.. So I'm trying to bleed the brakes and can't get fluid to the right rear.. I've done both fronts and the left rear.. I put weight in the back to open the load sensing proportioning valve and that wouldn't get fluid to the right rear.... Wondering where I would find the valve that shut off fluid to the right rear and how to reset it.. Can it be reset by using compressed air for back pressure on the right rear brake line? Is there a button somewhere? Is it in the contraption below the master cylinder? Any help would be appreciated as I want to get the "Cherry Bomb" as the kids call it back on the road.. Thanks..

 

I am pretty sure you should be able to pull fluid through with a vacuum pump... Gmule may be along with some actual info but they're sometimes a real pain.

 

Thanks. Standing by for gmule

 

I might add, the rack and pinion removal goes quick the second time around. We pirated a whole unit from a neighbors van, and it was out in no time at all.

 

IIRC those are criss cross brakes so its LF and RR on one side of the master cylinder and RF and LR on the other half....dont worry about the load valve....it doesnt shut off brake fluid completely but you may need to look it over, its been awhile since i worked on something that old but allot of those load valves had their own bleeder screw and honestly I would bet a good chunk of money on the fact that the load valve is rusted in place and doesnt actually work as intended at this point anyway.