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16Hp B&S Vanguard Starter Problems.

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by Marshel54, Aug 3, 2019.

  1. Marshel54

    Marshel54

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    This winter my mini would not turn over if the engine was to close to a compression stroke. Even manually turning the engine back the starter would crank through the first stroke like the battery was dead. I would have to put the heat gun on the starter and then it would work. Battery has been replaced.
    This summer it started to just click when trying to start it. Manually pushing the engine back would fix it. I replaced the starting solenoid because it was the easiest. Turned over and started once Now just clicks. Battery, ground and starter connection all checked and tight.
    Any other ideas beside the starter? Pulling the starter will be a major PIA. Maybe pulling the engine will save my sanity. Very tight quarters where the engine is.
    I have done some research and the majority of these models require pulling the flywheel to replace the starter. The starter bolts from the back side behind the flywheel. Generally, could I run into timing issue pulling the fly wheel or are they keyed for us dummies?
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2019
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  2. ckarnes

    ckarnes

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    You can pull the starter without removing the flywheel, the bolts are just short enough, it is teadious, but can be done with an open end wrench. More than likely though it needs to have the valves adjusted. Very common with B&S engines. Also check the battery cable from the battery to the solenoid, and from the solenoid to starter. Have seem the burned up as well.
     
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  3. Marshel54

    Marshel54

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    Thanks. At what clearance would you say I should suspect that this is the problem? I have to pull the shrouds off for a starter change anyway, not much time spent to do the valve check.
    Just saw a video replacing the starter without removing the flywheel. His engine was mounted in the vertical configuration my is horizontal. Maybe a little more frustrating.
    Tight quarters.

    DSCN0861.JPG
     
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  4. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Do a voltage test at the battery and at the starter while trying to crank it...they should be close to the same. If they are about the same, you have starter issues and maybe more as suggested. If the voltage is alot different then you may have a cable or connection issue...check the ground side too.
     
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  5. Marshel54

    Marshel54

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    Did the test and results were what I would suspect. 12.01v at the battery side of the solenoid and 11.89v at the starter terminal.
    I believe I will get a starter heading this way. I can return it if valve clearance would e the issue.
     
  6. SKEETER McCLUSKEY

    SKEETER McCLUSKEY

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    decompression thing is shot.....it gets worse after here....
     
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  7. Marshel54

    Marshel54

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    Got the shrouding off. It doesn't mount with bolts behind the flywheel. Removed a piece of shroud around the front of the starter. It mounts from the side. Removed one bolt and the other is impossible with the tools I have at hand. The bolt sits half way behind the snout of the starter. I have a few ideas when I go to town tomorrow. A hex key torxs or a torxs bit with an open end wrench glued or welded to it. If that doesn't work it may be missing more shrouds to allow for front access. Amazing what a saws-all and grinder will do.
    The engineer that designed this POS must have been suffering from Cranial Rectal Inversion.
    I ordered the after market starter. Couldn't see spending $129 for B&S verses after market at $40.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2019
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  8. Marshel54

    Marshel54

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    On going saga. Ordered some different tools they will be in tomorrow. Starter is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. If the new tools don't work I will pull the engine.
    Shouldn't be that bad of job. 2 bolts on the pump, 1 bolt for the muffler. fuel line, two wires and 4 mounting bolts. It is ashame that a person has to pull the engine to change a starter.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2019
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  9. Slacker

    Slacker

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    Tag.
    I think valves need adjusting.
     
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  10. Horkn

    Horkn

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    You can always check them when the engine is out of the chassis.


    Man they sure shoehorned that thing in there. No room at all.
     
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  11. Marshel54

    Marshel54

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    Starter finally on the ground. What finally got it off was a low profile socket 2 wobble extensions, breaker bar and a cheater pipe. I had never heard of wobble extensions but it was just enough.
    Since the thread 20 per inch, according to my thread gauge, I figured that it was 1/4-20. Not so more likely some metric thing. Off to the store to see if I can match it with a longer bolt I can make into a stud. I believe that will work much better than a bolt on the top.
    I will check valve adjustment. Should have all bases covered. The starter was pretty carboned up, brushes short and armature pitted.
     
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  12. Marshel54

    Marshel54

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    Finally! It is back running. Turning over better than it has for a couple of years.
    Never experience Murphy's Law to this extent. It literally fought me down to the last bolt. Dropped the washer and couldn't find it while connecting the battery.
    You know the way people name boats, I believe I will call the Mini Never Give Up.
    thCXDXGRUY.jpg
    All I need to find is a couple of decals.
     
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  13. eatonpcat

    eatonpcat

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    Now this is a good birthday present Rog!
     
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  14. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    So it sounds like the starter was roached...anything else that you found wrong...valves?
     
  15. Marshel54

    Marshel54

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    That was it. Didn't check valves. To anxious to start it.
     
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