proper saw starting

I never drop start this even if its warm (Fires 1 pull,is idling on 2nd thanks to new electronic module & recent carb kit) but set it on the ground or bench.The 2 big Husqvarna's can be drop started if they're warmed up but I normally start them on the ground or a log.All the smaller saws 62cc & under get drop started.

 

When I started using saws over 30 years ago none that I used had chain brakes.I was taught to always be aware of where that bar/chain was at at all times.Not just the tip either.

At least half of my saws that see regular use don't have chain brakes.Its all about common sense & experience.Dont work when tired,watch your footing on steep slopes/slick ground.Dont walk with saw idling/have brake engaged if saw has one.

 

In defense of drop starting I routinely have to do it. On a pole (or in a tree) or in a bucket its your only option. I sure don't want a screaming saw coming up on a handline or bouncing in the bottom of my bucket.

 

What is the safety issue with drop starting? If chain brake is engaged and hand is gripping top handlebar and not the throttle it would seem like a pretty safe method? I am probably more likely to stumble and fall when starting while bent over a saw sitting on the ground. Just trying to understand the issue.

 

My Sasquatch foot won't fit in the handle with boots on. I drop start mine with the brake set...although I won't recommend it if its your first rodeo.

 

"a screaming saw bouncing in the bottom of my bucket." … … sorry Jet, the thought of you dancin' around trying to get hold of that was funny…

 

I do occasionally leave the hydraulic drill switch on. Its interseting if the drill bit and not the socket is in when you step on the trigger.

 

… and, at 50 feet in the air…

 

I just have smaller top handle saws, 39 - 56 CC, to cradle the back of the saws between the knees work well for me.

 

I completely understand there are times where traditional saw starting is not practical. In my military training we referred to this as ORM. Operational risk management.

I'm certainly not an expert on why industry came up the the starting methods. I do know drop starting is against OSHA regs as well as most forestry training, courses, etc.

Is the "no drop start" a carry over from the older saws? Perhaps.
Should an operator be in the habit of expecting a chain to be locked from moving? Perhaps not. The chain brake could fail or the operator could forget to set it.

The problem I see with drop starting is you have a pivot point by only holding the saw at one point.

One day I was tuning a saw.
I guess I didn't pull the recoil quick enough and instead of turning over the engine, it lifted the back of the saw and ran the bar right into my leg. I don't exactly understand how it all happened, but the chain went through my pants and cut my leg.
It was a minor injury BUT I started to think about the "what if".

 

Starting the saw on the ground is no doubt safer than drop starting and that's how everyone should learn to do it. A lot of the no drop start stuff probably is because of the older saws the come screaming to life when they fire...with no chain brake to hold them back. My new M-tronic saw doesn't do that though .

But, FWIW, OHSA has a lot of completely ridiculous rules.

 

Poll on "Drop Starting" - Do you hold the:
A - Wrap-around handle. (Handle will pivot in hand allowing bar to rotate down then up.)
B - Handle with the trigger. (The saw can swing downward to wards the leg.)

I am not being negative or sarcastic about drop starting.

Myself with the smaller 2 top handles, Jonsered CS2139T & Husqvarna 338xpt, will hold them by "B". With my Stihl 08's I normally will cradle with my knees.

 

I would never do B. Always by the wrap handle.

 

I pretty well just hold the saw in place while I pull. They are light enough they don't move much.

 

Well not going to be easy to drop start my 045, you get it just right on the compression stroke I might do a somersault over the saw.