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Maintenance questions

Discussion in 'Non-EPA Woodstoves and Fireplaces' started by PA Dutch, Aug 4, 2019.

  1. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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    A few questions regarding woodstove and flue maintenance. Woodstove is a Fisher Insert with a 7.5" flexible stainless steel flue liner. Pics to follow.
    1. What is the best way to treat rust on the wood stove?
    2. What should be used to prevent rust on the woodstove insert screen?
    3. Would the flue need brushed/cleaned before this season?
    4. What should I use to seal the top of my chimney?
    Thanks in advance for any advice.
     
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  2. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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  3. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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    IMG_1705.JPG IMG_1706.JPG
     
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  4. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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  5. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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  6. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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  7. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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    IMG_1693.JPG IMG_1694.JPG IMG_1695.JPG IMG_1696.JPG IMG_1697.JPG I did clean my flue cap today as well as any creosote I could reach with a hand brush down the liner.
     
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  8. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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    One more question. Any thoughts on how to make the Fisher Insert any more efficient? I believe I read somewhere about putting a steel plate in as a baffle on top of the side fire brick holders and using angled cut fire brick.
     
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  9. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    WeldrDave will have some good resources on this...
     
  10. Chaz

    Chaz

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  11. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    I will give you the best "I" know and I'm sure it'll help. :handshake: 1st, Rust "Never" sleeps but you can slow it way down. If you have rust on the stove you need to "cup wire wheel" with a 4" as shown in link. Robtec 4 in. Steel Knotted Cup Brush-400CCTN20 - The Home Depot
    Then repaint area with either Satin high heat or Flat high heat paint.
    2nd, preventing rust on the screen is as simple as just a wire brush, but always revert back to what I first said.
    3rd, Your flue can never be too clean!!! I do mine twice a year whether it needs it or not. Burning nice seasoned dry wood you can get away with once but I wouldn't. If your burning "pine" then it's a must twice a year.
    4th, if your speaking of the broken mortar on the brick, I would lightly chip it off and re-parge it. "My" suggestion is find a good mason and pay a couple hundred and just get it done. Sometimes it's just best to let someone do that.
     
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  12. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    I will dig out my pics of a baffle installation. With an insert, it might be a tad different than a free standing stove because you have a flue damper "correct"? If you do then that will change things a little...
     
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  13. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Oh yeah...insert stove has the built in damper...I remember Coaly talking about that before...
     
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  14. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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    Thanks WeldrDave. I was hoping not to have to pull my woodstove out, but to treat the rust properly that is what I should do. As for the parging the top of the chimney, I have parged/mortared before when I worked construction for 18 years. However, I never worked on chimneys before. I was hoping someone might have an idea of what type of product (mortar/cement) to use. I believe I could do the work.
     
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  15. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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    WeldrDave I did not intsall the flue damper with the flexible stainless steel liner. I inserted the liner directly into the exhaust hole where the damper should be.
     
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  16. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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    Briefly looked up chimney crown repair/replacement, seems my chimney crown may not have been constructed "properly" from the beginning. Chimney Crown Replacement - Construction And Repair I might be into more than I thought but not beyond my capabilities. I might end up placing some left over aluminum flashing and sealant until I can do the job right. I have quite a few projects I am trying to finish before winter and may not be able to fit this one in.
     
  17. fishingpol

    fishingpol

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    I had two chimneys rebuilt from the roofline up by a mason. He used type "N" mortar. Same on the cap. He troweled the mortar around the terra cotta flue and pitched down to the edge of the bricks. I sealed it a few days later. It lasted many years.

    I did a quick repair this past spring by using a wire brush and light spray before replacing a little mortar in a few spots. It looked brand new. Sealed again with pump sprayer. I must have gotten 15 years out of the re-build before needing work.

    The skim on yours looks like it does not have much sand. A chisel could remove the loose pieces and be re-mortared, including between the bricks. A good investment of time and a little money to save a re-build down the road. Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019
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  18. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    PA Dutch. Look up a stainless cap.. My roof leaked it was the mortar on top of the chimney. 3 roofers couldn't figure it out.. buddy of mine works at a wholesaler that makes chimney caps New England Chimney Supply. Custom ordered to fit with the holes already in solve the problem and you don't have to worry about the motar anymore..

    Edit. Turned a two three day project into 40 minute fix
     
  19. PA Dutch

    PA Dutch

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    I like that idea. Thanks for the advice Canadian border VT.
     
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  20. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Yup, the previous owner here had the whole top of the chimney (2 flues) covered with a custom made SS cap