Yes!! That's what I want to try (or at least add additional support to the racks with timber in the blocks above). Those barbed wire fence posts would bury nicely in my yard. Also, you were indeed calling them correctly. Installing T-Posts | Tractor Supply Co. Thank you.
dorman. Welcome. A few years ago we had it stacked some else which now a driveway. But he did take some sort of wire and ran from post to post to stabilize it a little more.
I have had mixed results with stacking wood using cinder blocks and lumber as they don't always hold their ground. I was looking for something metal or other to maybe reinforce them. Now I realize it may be possible to just use them on the sides and skip the lumber all together (although it seems like using these in conjunction with the 2x4s or whatever on the sides is just what I need).
I'm a cheap SOB and a little lazy. Stacking wood on the ground is a waste money and effort. I cut my wood at 16" and stack on 4' wide pallets, yielding 3 course wide stacks. Here in California, where the summers are hot and humidity low, wood dries just fine stacked this way. I use a pallet as a "bookend" at each end, supported by 2 tee posts. I have found that, over time, the end tends to lean outward I now crib the ends to prevent this. Cribbing against a bookend is much less critical than free-standing cribbing, making it easier and less time consuming. I also crib where different years meet, ensuring that the stack doesn't collapse when I remove the oldest stack. I've actually calculated the $/cord for various stacking methods. My stacks are generally about 3 cords. Pallets are free, tee posts cost about $7 ea. (if I have to buy them), making it $28 to stack 3 cords = $9.33/cord. I have also used diagonal wood braces attached to the to support the "bookend". This works well, and is cheaper than tee posts, but stacking between the braces can be a little difficult. On the upside, the bookend is portable.
If you want to stack using the "cinder block and 2x4 rack" method, try using 4 blocks per stack, 2 on each end running lengthwise with the stack...also, when you put the 2x4 down into the block, put a brick or another piece of 2x4 in the hole (toward the stack side) too...that will cause the 2x4 to remain more upright and cause much less stress on it and the block...some people say the end of the block blows out if you don't...I suppose it depends on the block quality. Another thing to make things more stable is to tie your stacks together by putting them side by side, and using split or stick that is over twice as long as you cut your wood too...then put those pieces in the stacks randomly so they have one end in each stack...connects them together and adds much stability.
Great info. I actually have this working on one of my stacks but it required 4 blocks and at least another one in the middle, and requires two 2x4x8s cut in half for the end sides (two per side). Then one needs pallets or another couple 2x4s or 2x6s running the length of the horizontal stack. And it requires level ground for those blocks for the balance/weight thing to work out as well as careful stacking. Unfortunately I do not have level ground (which simply means playing the level game by adding or digging). But I like the idea of t-posts. I can bury the ends 1.5 or 2 feet into the ground and use only 3 or 4 cinder blocks depending on the length... and I suspect (hope) that the balance of weight and levelness of the cinder blocks won't be as critical because I have steel posts driven maybe a couple feet in the ground. Maybe I'm wrong and it's going to be trial and error in my space.... but I just think the t-posts are going to be minimal and do what I need.
Hopefully the it will work for you. Chaz is still working but I am sure he will be putting his $0.02 in.
On the cheap; Locust saplings on the ground or on blocks with cribbed ends. Beats loosing wood from rot and spending money on "stacking stuff" and they last almost longer than you. Think locust fence posts.
On the cheap; Locust saplings on the ground or on blocks with cribbed ends. Beats loosing wood from rot and spending money on "stacking stuff" and they last almost longer than you. Think locust fence posts.
dotman17 to add some specifics to the information that Chazsbetterhalf provided, We were stacking on 48" pallets with 2 T-posts on each end. Further, I purchased coated cable and cable clamps to tie together the tops of the posts. During stacking, or even near the end, put a ratchet strap from one end to the other, ratchet posts inward, pinching the stacks, then cable them. Ain't nothing going anywhere. Don't have any pics though. Cable & clamps.. Oh, and if you think you'll be pulling those T-posts back out, I'd highly recommend the purchase of a T-post puller, it saves a LOT of time. I have a co-worker who suggested buying one, but his wife thought it was a waste of money, till he borrowed mine when they were redoing some fenceline. They bought one.
I have found a cheap pump sprayer and diesel fuel on the pallets will keep away termites, rodents and bees, I had pallets last 5 to 6 years with the diesel treatment
Until a plastic eating "termite" comes into existence, I don't worry any longer!!! I never tried the diesel fuel trick, (didn't even give it thought) but I did paint them, moth flakes, rock salt and so on under them. Those Ba$tards "STILL" ate those pallets. My main reason for not putting any type of "end" on my stacks is; We get Nor-Easters and Hurricanes, I know your aware of that and I'm not far from the water. The less you have sticking up, the less chance something becomes a flying projectile... "Unless it's buried in the ground like a pole"
Pretty much the same here. Locust grows tall and straight here, and lasts without rot. Cut up a bunch of 12ft, lay it down, stack on top, fence posts pounded at the ends, fence wire up at shoulder level to pull in the ends. SE wi, seems to work here, very little damp wood, no decay, holds up well, no storeage stuff to move around around except posts and poles. It's all free. No one pastures anymore, so posts are out there. Locust grows like weeds. The poles sink a little over several years, just pull them, level the area, lay them back down. 10 yrs using the same poles - still perfectly good. I wire some washers to the posts to keep track of years. 2019 would be one big washer (5year) and 4 small.
No locust here. Not much hard, really. I did pop for 4 T-posts yesterday for about $20+. I don't /*think*/ I need to go as solid as Chaz with the cables, but I will try and see how sturdy I can get the posts. Rack will be on cinder blocks with t-post ends.
I haven't had a block blowout yet but I've only had this rack system up a few years so I suppose that can happen at any time. For the ends I used 2x4x8's cut in half as you mention. For the bottom rails I used 3x4x8 PT Landscape Timbers that lowes had on sale like 4 for 10$ if I remember correctly. They are obviously sturdier than a PS 2x4x8 so I only used 3 blocks for my racks but 4 is gooder for more support.
We have electric fence wire, I think it's 14ga. Have never had one break. I wrap it once, or once and back. Seems to hold up.
