What have I got here ?

That's true...a wood and gas appliance into the same chimney isn't completely "legal" anymore...would be easy enough to vent a new condensing WH through the wall...or go to a HPWH...

 

Maybe that's why that stove hasn't been used in so long someone figured out they could blow themselves up.

 

It is my plan to go with a tankless propane heater IF this is a wood furnace worth using . I don’t have much budget, I was assuming I’d have to buy a modern wood furnace . IF I can use this stove my budget has a lot of room for a good water heater. If I need to buy a stove I’ll probably end up with a cheap electric water heater .

Thanks for looking out ! I assume my insurance would drop me like 3d period French if I hooked the woodstove up now .


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Actually I think the chimney IS hooked up, the hot air is not ???

I will not light it until the hot water chimney is gone.

Id be interested to hear anything about what’s needed on the wood stove part of things . I’ll tackle hot water when I know my budget. Either way propane on that chimney is gone


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Potentially nothing...need to inspect it good per Lamppa's recommendations, but as long as all the pieces are still there and in good condition, it may be ready to go...I'd get the chimney checked out too...

 

I don’t believe all the pieces are there . As it sits it appears to not be hooked into the house hot air ducts . The absence of a fan is also in question.

I’ll send the manufacturer an email , with specifics questions. I imagine it’s better to get it resolved before they get into busy season


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Ok yeah there should be a blower on the back I believe...is there a rectangular hole in it toward the bottom on the back? Maybe with 4 holes 1 at each corner (or a 1/4" stud on each corner)? FYI, if the blower is missing...probably about a $200 item. Can be bought from them, or aftermarket too...just need a blower model #, or probably not be too hard to just "make one work".
Lamppa MFG is already slammed busy this year...they are moving into a new larger facility, plus being the only EPA certified forced air wood fired furnace at this point...yeah, they kinda busy...

 

I always use a pipe damper to extend heat times.Once you hook up try installing one.It might be of some benefit.

 

I’ve to plead my ignorance what do you mean by extend heat times ? Do you mean to close the chimney damper after the fire is out ?


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A pipe damper is used once the fire is going well to slow the rate of the wood burning by reducing air to the fire.Thus keeping the wood to burn slower so the fire last longer.The longer the fire the longer the heat.The damper can also direct more heat off the stove and into the room by either turning it forward or backwards.Try it both ways and see which position sends the most heat towards you.

 

Thanks for clarifying. I will not be in the same room as this stove . I’m hoping it will deliver heat through the same duct as the fuel oil furnace. There is a Handel on the front of the furnace that I believe ( could very easily be wrong) functions as a dampener

I don’t know anything !
I welcome any corrections or advice


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A pipe damper does limit the amount of air the fire gets by cutting off the chimney draft...draft is the negative pressure ("suction") that the chimney places on the firebox that causes the whole thing to work. It has long been said that the chimney is the engine of the stove. If you cut it back too much the fire will smolder and smoke (make creosote)...also can make the stove smoke back into the house...can be dangerous if not used correctly.
Many of the newer (and many older ones too) wood furnaces (and coal) use an automatic damper called a barometric damper...it will keep a specific draft all the time with no user input after it is initially calibrated...the new Kuuma's use them too. Work totally different than the manual dampers though. Some consider these controvertial because they can make chimney fires worse by adding more air...all the more reason to burn only dry wood! And the Kuuma furnace is famous for its smokeless burn...a chimney fire at old man Lamppa's house is what started them building these things...dunno how clean a K1 model like this burns, but I bet it is better than anything else of that age!

I can't say for sure because I have never seen one of these in person, but I bet that handle is the bypass for loading...basically when the bypass is open it makes a short direct path to the chimney for the smoke/fumes to go when you have the loading door open, then when done you close it making the fire go around the baffle plate, which makes it burn hotter and more completely...also makes the furnace more efficient by giving the heat of the fire a longer exit path/more residence time to transfer heat to the walls of the firebox (and thus to the house)

 

Ya go on youtube to check out how to use the pipe damper.Be safe .

 

Yeah- orders are up 125% from a year ago