Road-side Oak : Great idea with the “log log”. I have a scale I could use to do the covered/uncovered test. Find two similarly sized splits and a-weigh we go.
I agree that weight is gold standard. The moisture meter can be very misleading as it only tells you the moisture content between the two points at the surface. It in no way reflects on the moisture content of the entire split. That said I think if u take a fresh reading from the inside immediately after splitting you get a better idea. The trouble with weight alone is you only know it’s dry when it stops losing weight. Although at this point I can tell by feel and sound of splits. Also even tried blowing soap bubbles through some splits. That really shows you how wood is really just a bundle of straws and most of the moisture escapes from the end grain.
Not great shots but you get the idea. I took a heavy duty metal storage rack and wrapped it in 1.5 or 2” foil lined rigid foam insulation. (The more fire safe variety). Ran a small space heater and 2 circulation fans inside and sealed it up. I also left a few remote temp/humidity gauges inside the unit so I could keep an eye on the interior envoirment during each “firing” session. I left a small hole at the top and bottom to allow for some air turn over and more importantly to vent the humidity. I really want to try it again with a dehumidifier the trouble is keeping one running in such a small space. It gets way too hot in there for the dehumidifier. I may trying plumbing one in externally this fall. Will see if I get to it...!once my three year oak comes of age there will be little need for all this madness. Although, one benefit to “flash” heating my splits is that I can rest easy knowing my splits are bug free. I only have an indoor stove so with bringing my fuel inside pests are certainly a concern. This heating cabinet serves a quick sterilizer of sorts.
Yes, just one more reason I seldom believe when someone says they have dry wood after using a mm. Better to let the wood dry naturally and then know that the wood is dry. I've run into several folks lately who really believe those readings. One got wood that was cut and split only 3 months prior to his reading but really actually believed his wood was under 10% moisture. Right...
If I recall correctly, you have to take into account the species of wood when doing a moisture content check. The meters are taking an electrical reading and each species has it's own conductivity. There are better meters available as well besides the cheapy general meters for $20, the more expensive ones are more for fine woodworking and can be calibrated, I would trust those more. Is it worth spending more money, no I don't think so for this subject. Kind of like using a laser thermometer, the emissivity of each material is different.
