So I was handed the subject saw as a big puzzle that needed new piston installed. The puzzle is completed* and the saw runs but this problem is a new one to me. This is seen without bar & chain installed and was an obvious problem I couldn't remedy when building it. *The clutch drum sprocket doesn't just drop in like I'm used to. It needs quite a bit of effort to seat on the shaft. 1) No - the brake is not on 2) Brand new needle bearing - greased 3) Shaft also greased 4) No signs of damage/ wear/ heat on either clutch or drum. Without needle bearing installed, everything spins freely. To get everything to seat takes an abnormal amount of forcing. I'm stumped... but surely FHC has my back?!
OEM drum? Correct placement of oil pump drive gear? Find where it’s binding. May need to remove plastics surrounding clutch/brake to check everything. Some AM drums aren’t worth more than scrap. Others are good.
Likely OEM but will confirm. Going to dig back in and take clutch off again. It was a beast to remove originally. Will check work gear/ pump position. This is the first clamshell I have ever done p&c so maybe I botched the reassembly. After working on this, I understand why go to pro saws. They are much easier to fix and a lot less plastic!
Clutch itself is unlikely to cause binding if put together in the correct order and torqued. Brake band, crank issue, incorrect needle bearing (there are several variations), out of round drum, etc.
BuckthornBonnie thanks for the "thinking".... it's a bad worm gear. When removing I pulled the spring/arm deal (didn't realize it just slid out as a whole.) Looks like I boogered it. Pulled out the spring/ arm and left the worm gear in there and everything spins free upon re-assembly. So... another part I need. Thanks for the help.
Gah, I need to replace an older style 391 cylinder but am blanching at the prices! Doesn't seem like there are even AM options for this saw, though.
