i picked up a model 66 husqvqrna today at an auction...when inspecting it the rope would only pull out about 6 inches I could tell it had good comp..so I figured all it would need was a new rope...turns out with a hard enough yank it fired up...do these have that much comp. and shouldn't they have a comp release button?
Replace the cord with the right one for the shiv. I had a similar problem with a 281 XP with a new double ring piston. I thought if this is how it’s gonna be to start this thing, I’m dumping it. Took two men and a boy. I did a little more research and replacing the cord made a world of difference. Even with the decomp closed, it’s not that bad.
After digging aroun on the net this is a common prob on this generation saw. I read a lot of threads with a lot of advice but never found anyone who actually figured it out...and posted results... So here are my results...I took the starter off...looking at the rope it's origonal and seems to fit perfict...so I tor it down add and cleaned and lubed the shaft wiped down all the bar oil from the spring and rewound it...it turned and rebound as like new now..but after installing the center screw that holds the pulley. Walaaaa. It is acting like a brake...just enough wear to let the washer drag...1/4 turn of the screw and it runs free..just took a thin washer and shimmed it out... Runs in and out real smooth now....the saw still has a lot of compression and really should have a decompression valve but once you get the technique down its not too bad to start...
My 66 doesn't have a decomp valve. It is a great old saw. My buddy bought it new in 1992, probably put 8-10 tanks of gas through it, burned up the bar running without oil, got hard up for $$$, sold it to me for $300. Used it ever since.
G To add a little more info. Wrenching on a 154 SE this afternoon so I pulled the starter to look at it and noticed that on this model there was some thought put into that washer. The spring side has a shoulder built in to rest on the plastic post. The other side has slight a bevel to accept the screw. This would keep that friction from happening.
Wow thanks for posting that...my washer is similar but the machined edge is not so high ...maybe the wrong washer was installed at some time...anyway my little shim replicates that... I took it out and cut a load of wood with it today...took some time to clean up and run good but it sure does rip now...
Easy if the clutch side has this. Drill 1-2mm hole, then tap M10x1.0 threads - standard decomp valve threads
Those older Huskies we're notorious for high compression. I think it was a 55 or 66 we had. Of it decided to kick back while cranking, it either broke the rope, snatched the handle out of your hand or hurt your shoulder.
55 does. I think just the rancher though. Sorry, crossed the wrong posts. 55 comes with the decomp cast in to tap for a valve. Can’t say what the 66 does. My 55 has 165 psi and the first pull lets you know it’s there, but it’s manageable. I can see a tight 66 giving a fight.
I popped of the cover and this one doesn't have that boss to drill a hole so I guess I will have to live with it... I got me a new Oregon 24 inch bar mounted on it today..gotta find some big wood tomorrow ..
I know a guy that'll add a decomp right in front of the spark plug if the top of the cylinder is flat. He's not terribly far from you. Pm me if you're interested
Shaun Carr. Srcarr52 on ope or AS. I've had him do it before, not sure if he's still doing it or not though
