So, who has the biggest 6"...?

6" flue pipe that is.
I haven't been paying attention to new stoves, but I'm now wondering who has the best large capacity, 6" flue stove out there? A bit of back story..
I've been running a BKK for about 10 years, and in Dec. had a flue fire. Now, almost all the pipe is out and ready for a re-configuration (nasty, snaky mess before- hardly ideal). So it's all out, 8" pipe. Sooo... hmmmm... maybe time to address the stove.
Without going into a long explanation, the BKK is a pretty good stove, but it comes up short in this barn. Wife told me the house is warmer now, running the propane furnace @ 65 than with the stove. I agree with her.
So, since I'm already changing everything up, might as well see if there's a better stove out there.
I'm kicking tires at this point, but input is appreciated. Thanks, JB

 

Wow a Blaze King King should throw a lot of heat!! I got a Woodstock IS ideal steel, throws heat like crazy... What are you looking for Beetle-Kill?

Our home is weird multi level vaulted ceilings 2400 sq. Feet etc.. Our furnace set to 55? My goal is not to hear it run.. Usually don't unless colder than 5 below and windy.. I hear good things about KUMA also

 

I'd look at the Kuma Sequoia.

 

Our Lopi Liberty has been perfect for us. Plenty of heat and a large glass door. Gotta see m'far...

 

I checked with my closest dealer today. $3750.00 A little steep for something I don't know would work any better than the King.

 

I'd probably go with the Ideal Steel, think the box is the bigger of the two if I'm not mistaken.
I remember BrianK Beta testing that stove. Had a good thread while burning Lodgpole pine.

 

I got one Beetle-Kill if you got any questions.. 3.2 cu foot Firebox on IS..

 

I have Brian's IS now. It is a heating machine!
Brian is running a PH where he's at now. He thinks the IS is better.

 

Probably because we have heat throughout the house with the furnace vs. being more localized with the stove. Luckily the winter has been mild and the days are getting longer. I get a fair amount of solar gain so the furnace only kicks on through the night.
We also never use the furnace unless we're away or it gets seriously cold out. It's been kinda nice actually. Expensive, but nice.
Cat is fairly new, still works fine. I mean, the stove works fine, it just may not be the best stove for this drafty old house. I fondly remember that old Timberline smoke dragon we had. After I put gaskets on the doors and converted it to secondary air, that sucker threw some heat and could go 10-12 hours on a load. But I got hooked on the newer,bigger,longer burn, more efficient train of thought and went with the BKK.

 

I'll hit you up if we get ready to make the leap. Thanks.

 

Why not go with a wood fired furnace then? Works for us...

 

My experience with the BKK is it’s a
great stove when burning hot & cranking out BTUs ...
....But...
The low slow burns (burning 3&4 yr birch)
Create lots creosote inside the stove .
...
Nice to get 36+ hour burn times but
the creo build up & the corrosion hole
in the back of mine came at a $$ cost.
..
I did R&R with same stove , but we have
2 - 3 months it has to crank out BTUs..
....
IMO
Not a good shoulder season stove.

 

We have a Vogelzang Ponderosa that has a pretty big firebox and 6" pipe. We heat the whole house with it with our furnace as a back up. Our house is 2700 sf. two story with full basement. The stove is in the basement and it throws off heat like crazy and the furnace fan distributes it throughout the whole house. I wouldn't want it upstairs in a room with us unless the room was 16 by 24 at least. With a full load it takes 5 to 15 minutes to come up to full temp and I shut down the primary air all the way and it will coast with a STT of over 700 for 2-4 hours depending on the wood. Then it starts ramping down if you aren't right there to adjust the primary air. At about 5 hours (with primary still shut down) STT is down to 300 to 350 and it has a huge bed of coals. I usually pull them forward and throw 1 split in on top of them and leave the primary mostly open and STT will go back up to 500 or so for another 1-2 hours and ramp back down. I repeat the coal forward and one split again with the primary full open and get a STT of 500 again for about an hour. Then its time for a new full load to start all over again. Our furnace did run this past week with the zero temps but we keep it set at 71 in the house. I don't mind the heat pump running, but for sure hate it when the coils in the electric furnace have to come on. 5kW per coil with 7 coils available, they can make the meter spin. At 20* F outside I can keep the heat pump from ever kicking on if I keep an eye on the stove. When it's above freezing I have to be careful not to run us out, but that's why we have screen doors at the front door and on the deck. Reletively big heating bang for the buck and no one ever really sees it but me so I'm not worried about "ambiance". It's a heating untensil at our house. Plate steel simple air tube EPA stove. It is working very well for us. Overnight or if we go away, I will load the stove full and shut down the primary air and after 2-4 hours it will ramp down and if I just let it go flue temp will drop to about 250 but hold a bed of coals for 12-16 hours.

 

Unfortunately, that isn't an option.

 

Never looked into it, I honestly don't think my layout would accommodate a furnace like that. I've got a weird house, 3 levels but the lowest is almost an afterthought.
72.5" ceiling height. Good thing I'm short.

 

I hear you, we've discussed the interior buildup in the past and it is a pita to remove. I think I probably b*tch about the stove at least once a season.
Thinking about cutting out the int. side shields and putting in fire brick, won't take much to accomplish. Don't know. I think I'll probably just get the new 8" pipe in and see how it does without the airflow restrictions. Worst case, I go with a new system.
Where did you get a corrosion hole??