Working on an 026. The one without an H screw. Replaced the carb with an adjustable H one which got it running and gave the needed flexibility for tuning. So anyway. It oils like crazy, I mean crazy. The oiler is not adjustable, but there is the access hole for an adjuster. What would make it oil that much? Can I just put an adjustable one in. It's there something else I may be missing?
You can as the "Pro" adjustable oiler. Yes. But byA Lot? What do you mean? What have you compared it to (side by side)?
By a lot I mean about 15cc of oil dripping down the entire length of each side of the 16" bar. It is definitely bar oil. Ran many saws, never seen anything like this. no way it could outlast the gas. Not my saw, was only asked to get it running. Did that. Just trying to get to the bottom of the oil issue before he comes back to have that fixed. Told him about the oil issue. Newish to working on saws, mostly my CAD, and helping buddies resurrect disrespected Stihls.
Are you running bar oil or something lighter like motor oil ? If I run motor oil that's exactly what happens when I run bar oil it is thicker and oils properly.
I took the clutch cover and sprocket off and can see there is nothing there. The screwdriver goes all the way to the top of the brake band where it stops. This was the cheapo 026. And the saw has been returned to it's owner.
Not sure I follow where the screwdriver went though, and/or what was missing. There was really no el-cheapo 026. Both pro and non-pro models were built the same, with the exception of the oil pump and the decomp button. On the 026 non-pro model, they have a constant oil pump which runs at all times, as opposed to the 026 Pro model which runs off the clutch drum only when the clutch is engaged and spinning. The 026 non-pro will oil more than the Pro does, and it will oil a 20 inch bar no problem. They tend to puddle oil more as well, but they are not gushers. The only other difference is that the Pro model has a decomp button, which an 026 really does not need. I have had many of these saws: some early, mid and late models, some pro and some non-pro. Many of both types had clear gas tanks, others had solid ones. Early model 026s had open mufflers, and they were choked up more and more in several versions as time went on. Early models had aluminum top handles, later ones had composite top handles. Early models had fully adjustable carbs, some of the mid and late models had non-adjustable fixed H jet carbs. Some models had plastic starter housings, some had metal ones. I have had non-Pro models with Pro frames, and they have the oil hole in the bottom but no adjustable oiler. They came that way from the factory (mix and match). For future reference, the non-pro oiler in an 026 or 260 can be upgraded to the adjustable 'pro' type. You need to replace the oil pump and the clutch drum that will drive the adjustable oil pump, and you need to drill a hole in the bottom of the case if you do not have a pro engine case.
In addition to everything StihlHead said above, you will also need to grind out the cast case "protrusions" (sort of like pilasters/buttresses) around the clutch drum to allow the drum to drop into the housing enough to seat properly and engage the oiler worm gear. The adjustable oiler's drum is about a 1/4" deeper than the non-adjustable one. This was actually the most involved part of the work. I used a drummel tool with assorted heads to do the work. My one 026 was a real oil gusher too, and I bought all the parts to upgrade it as a "kit" on ebay. I'm running an 18" 3/8 bar on it now.
Yes, that too... if you do not have a pro engine cases. Many of the non-pro 026 saws have the pro cases for whatever reason (leftover factory runs from less demand?). They are not listed differently in the IPL though. It sounds like the OP had the pro cases on his 026 with the slot cut in the bottom. I presume he returned it rather than mess with it though? Note that the 026 IPL lists all the adjustable oil pump parts as a conversion kit. PN: 1121 007 1043, which has everything you need to do the upgrade (except the Dremel tool). It also fits the 260 and 024/240 saws. I found a kit online for $40 by Googling the part number. Hmmmm, maybe I should upgrade one of my 026s? I also have a spare engine case and crank/rod from an 026 that seems to be from a pro model in my parts box. I forget where it came from though.
How do you guys like the 026? There's one at my local hook-up that is over-priced at $175, but it has my eye. It'd be a great "cabin saw" and something my younger brothers can buzz with all day long.
If its in good shape, $175 would be a great price around here. I recently sold a nice clean-up one for $265 at a gun show, although I'd rebuilt the carb and put a brand new chain and air filter on it.
$175 is the typical low-end price for them here, as they get no respect in the land of long bars. So that is not overpriced in my book. I paid that for 2 of mine, actually, both were in good condition and had features that I wanted. I have had 6 or 7 of them. Its a pro saw and will run all day. Fixed, working and looking nice I can get $225-275 for them here. You do not want one with the fixed H jet carb though. The clear gas tanks are also nice to have.
Good to know... I may make a move on it. It's a little beat up but nothing major. The piston (love the fact that these guys let me look everything over) is in decent shape and the compression is great. It comes with the manual and 2 older chains as well.
Ya.... I'm probably going to buy it and sell/give it to one of my brothers. I'll let ya'll know about the carb.