Pellet heads!! What's up today?

you should not have a leak,unless,he had to remove the exhaust,to move stove a little,which happens.His hammering/prying tells me the impeller would not come off,very normal,he must have brought one along(smart).Get that leak fixed and stay warm!!!

 

So if replacing the comb motor, might as well have a new fan as it may need to be cut off. Got it.

Although I think I would try a Dremel on the collar as the reciprocating saw may get the metal around the fan. At least that would be my luck....it jumps and puts a hole where a hole shouldn't be

 

Yes,I think you understand the basics.There are about a zillion threads,here and on the "other " site,about removing the impeller.On some stoves(even some Harmans) you can pull the blower out,complete,impeller attached,then heat the impeller with a torch,and get the set screw out,and,even,drill out the set screw.But,on stoves like yours and mine,the impeller has to come off first.Impellers used to be expensive,they are not,anymore.Most are 20 bucks.Take a sawsall,chop off the end of the motor shaft(which you are replacing) and continue.Most of us here,and anybody that is/has been a mechanic,puts anti-seize on the shaft,and on the threads of the set screw.AND,lots remove the impeller,clean it,reapply anti seize,every spring.Stove technicians used to do this,when the serviced stoves,that appears to have gone away,quite some years ago. But,they are paid poorly,and poorly trained,it is dust in the wind,now.New motors are cheap,new impellers are cheap,a throw a way society.OK,back to watching silent movies,stay warm.

 

There are so many thing built not ever intending to be repaired. sealed units. No serviceable parts. then there is the fact that in some things, like printers, you can buy a new one for less than part, that is if there are any parts available

 

That's so true Larry, I get that every week. "My printer isn't working, can you.." .. No, Sigh. Unless the printers are "old school" old, or workgroup grade class -> or higher, have to explain they are designed to fail / to be replaced by the manufacturer - can't remove parts, and even if I could: they'd cost a mortgage payment. Sad really.

 

That button looks expensive G. I already know the Queen's answer to that question.

 

remote start--38 wires---- go from there

 

38 wires.. I can see it now ..

 

Very true Larry and printers are the worst. Currently, do not buy any HP printer where the model starts with an M (ie M607 etc). We service printers at times and lately any HP M series that has been evaluated and needs a part does not get repaired as the part is far too expensive in relation to cost of the printer itself.

Really sad situation we are in where items are made to be thrown away and cannot be serviced for one reason or another.

 

Yeah, I can be cheap at times. Ive never had remote start but more and more are coming with it factory installed. Even if my vehicle had that button, I wouldnt want to "waste the gas"

Although there are a few times that even I would use it for pre heating but generally the most I might do is start the engine as I was walking out the door to get the oil moving.

 

I'd get the one where you just just push a button, you are going to get cold figuring out 38 wires to start the engine every time

 

No chit - growing up, my parents had an AMC Pacer (looked like a fishbowl), ignition lock & switch were broken when someone tried to steal it (why the h.e.double.hockey.sticks someone would try to steal an AMC Pacer - is beyond me ): to start it "post-theft attempt", had to wrap the wires together on the (Run) circuit, and touch (2) wires together, to (Start) the rolling fishbowl.

My Dad was so proud of that wiring arrangement. ... Props to Dad - for MacGuyver'ism at it's finest.
re: Mom - That arrangement lasted about a week.

I'll keep turning the key, Thank You very much.

 

Rainy weather is back and the S WORD is in the near future.
Went out the other day and fed a couple barrels of shells through MUNCHY and got them STOVE READY.

The temp fix on the BIG WHIT is working great, but the control for the draft is still allowing the motor to WHA WHA at times.

I have a second fan controller and am thinking about putting it in the stove during the next down time for cleaning..

That will also give me more air control on the draft, as the fan speed is stuck at 112 volts.

It is supposed to be like 70..76..79..85..107 From feeds 1 to 5

With the shells I like more air though...

 

I think my Explorer has the capability, they just have to flash the computer (from what I read all XLT's after 2012 have the capability built in). But they charge loads for that and I'm not really that needy at this point in my life (of course I never thought I would get to that "heated seats are a must" either).

 

Temp in the house was much more reasonable this evening at 70* in the office, 68* in the bedrooms and 73 in the living room. That's because I put it in "Renegade" mode. Throttled down the feed rate to just below 1. I don't run it often like that, but when I do, it works beautifully for me.

Yeah, I know it isn't "good" for the stove - so kids, don't try this at home.

 

I was like that when I first bought my truck. Once I figured out that by starting it the defroster turns on in High, the rear window defroster turns on, and the heated seats turn on. I decided real fast that I could afford the extra 25 cents I was "wasting" by starting it 10 minutes early.

 

When it's near zero out I run my P43 in "renegade mode". Usually have the feed at 2. Keeps a constant heat output and the whole house stays comfortable.

Sam

 

You make a good point there subbie

 

Our Subaru has heated seats and so did our Rouge. I have driven a few new Dodges and Jeeps lately that have heated steering wheels. I am a fan.

Doggy

 

My 4 year old refrigerator has cooled it's last brewski.After 3 attempts at repair they have declared it unreparable.My last fridge lasted 32 years.The copper line to the evaporator had rotted away.Whirlpool owes me a new fridge.We will see what happens.