A friend of mine has a Harmon accentra 2 pellet stove that he replaced the circuit board on. My question is does anyone know the dip switch settings for this model? His parts supplier said the board they sent him was the correct one for his stove, just not sure of settings and it's still not working properly. Thanks.
Harman ships the boards with instructions included.Also,it should have been in a sealed static free electronics bag.There are different settings for different part number boards,and possibly different settings for different board versions/revisions.The latest board is 1-00-05886,and I think they are up to revision f,possibly g.There will be a sticker on the board with the part number and version.Also,pay attention,one of the switches is for whether the stove has the exhaust probe with red wires,or black wires.Here is the service bulletin. http://rs.woodmanspartsplus.com/company_41/Harman Dipswitch Reference Chart.pdf
pretty concise, Badbob! Yea, probably the wrong switch setting......nooone reads the instructions included with the boards
Sorry been so long to reply, none of the schematics they sent matched his actual stove. All the switches were actually off on the old board. Turned all off on this one and it worked. Beats me.
Because people tend to "google away" and find posts such as this, I feel its important to note that one should follow the correct switch settings for their model stove and their version of board.......turning all the switches off trying to guess at a cure for the issue is folly, and at a minimum wont work, and I don't want to hazard a guess as to what the "worst that can happen" is.......please don't get a new board, look at the old board, and use the same settings.....READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Please don't look online, find this post, and think because turning them all off worked for one user, it might work for you......READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Im not a HHT employee, but have sold and installed thousands of units, serviced them, and attended Harman training schools as well. From experience, most issues with new boards result from people not reading instructions. You spend over a couple hundred dollars for the board, but dont want to take time to read the documentation which is included in the box with the board..... end rant......
I agree with you on that point, as stated the schematic that was sent did not have his stove model listed. He checked with the company he bought it from to verify it was the correct board, they told him which model schematic to use and it didn't work. All instructions were read. I asked if anyone knew the settings mostly. This is just what worked for his.
I was not being rude,but,for proper information,the sticker on the control board has a suffix,which may use a different instruction sheet.And,Accentras use the most common board,I find it very hard to believe it was not on the instruction sheet.There is an Accentra(which includes the 2) and Accentra insert.Been that way for years.
No worries man, I don't know anything about them that's why i came here asking. I'm just a woodstove man myself. I don't know the how or whys of why none of the other settings would work. I do know now though that that little sign that says high voltage isn't lying hahaha.
yep....high, and low, voltage can be a killer of circuitboards, and when they are the culprit, well, its hard to diagnose that......very few people actually chart and monitor incoming voltages......we were having computer issues once, and did exactly that....charted voltages automatically with some device the computer company had which charted voltage versus time on a paper tape.....found that, yep, it varies quite a bit. The electric company denied it.....and even after presented with the tape, started questioning its accuracy, etc.......cant win on that. As a technician, all you know is the circuitboard was fried......thats it. Can be chasing those ghosts forever, unless you happen to test the voltage at exactly the moment there is a spike, and even then, you're likely to dismiss it as an aberration.
Came up against this issue in the trouble room a few times, especially large buildings with 3 phase service. Not sure about other electric companies but our 3 phase service tolerance range is pretty high. Depending on capacitors, regulators and stuff it could be high or low. Other factors to especially with spikes.
I though it was strange when we built the power plant that 12,470 volts is not actually considered "high voltage". I'm comfortable working with 480v, but 12,470 is high enough so I don't want to touch it. They call that medium voltage. Greater than 35kv and less than 230kv is considered high voltage. Over 230kv is extra high voltage. 480V is still considered low voltage (less than 1000v). I sometimes find trivia like that interesting.
Two weeks ago, at one of my Hub sites, a car whacked the pole in the front that had our 12K feeders feeding our transformer in the back of our building. I was shocked as to how small the actual aluminum conductor in those are. The insulation jacketing makes the feeder wires look like a hefty wire but the actual conductor was quite small.....just thought it would have been larger carrying that 12K. The other surprising thing was the local power company required the aluminum feeders, which wound up being a lot cheaper for me.
