Cleaning under the exhaust blower impeller blades?

Hello
Maybe I am a little anal about this but when a wire wheel on the drill driver does not cutet that hardened nasty black carbon combined with some wicked raised rust, I pull out the stops and go with the tool of choice!
A 4-1/2” angle grinder I got for $5 dollars with over a $50 dollar purchase at Harbor Freight makes the sparks fly!
4-1/2 in. 4.3 Amp Angle Grinder
and a nice 4.5” 40 grit flap disc!
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-4-1-2-in-40-Grit-Steel-Demon-Grinding-and-Polishing-Flap-Disc-with-Type-29-Conical-Design-DCX045040N01F/20283090
Gets it smooth as a baby’s bottom!
Then a little dry moly and the air is flowing like a wind tunnel!
What do u do?

 

Don,you go the xtra mile.You put the local "certified" stove guys to shame.I know you stock the impellers,and the universal mounting plates,and,if there is heavy corrosion/rust,cleaning it and coating it is only temporary,BUT,you have to deal with pellet stove owners,which tend to be a bunch of tightwads!lol,so I understand.Glad to see you adopted dry moly,I have used it since the 70's,engine building,awesome stuff.I saw no excess anti-seize around the impeller shaft,or screw,does the dry moly work,as you have taken units apart a year later.I still use nickle anti-seize on the impeller shaft,and set screw,but,dry moly might be better for this?

 

Thanks Bob
The dry moly does keep the corrosion down and the set screw from galling. It may be as good as never seize but since I use it to coat the impeller blades it is easier to use it on the entire blade.
The impeller blade shown above was on the motor shaft for over 2 years and by using the dry moly over 2 years ago it came apart easily.

 

Cool,thanks for reply.I have used dry moly for years,and your true test over time,proved it.Thanks,Don.

 

I have don2222 come over and fix it

Still have to get some of that dry moly - thanks for reminding me!