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Auto Weld X Chain Tensioner

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by HolsatiaRedneck, Jan 4, 2019.

  1. HolsatiaRedneck

    HolsatiaRedneck

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    Last season i ruined my chain tensioner, while plungin the bar into a tree, i straightend the bar to early and ended up just shoving it into the tree. Without caring about the resistent it tried to give. Well in the end i cut another 2 cords with it but than it failed me big time, i thought about buying a new Tensioner which is like close to 40 bucks... Auto Weld was cheaper.

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    Gettin the thing outta there...

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    I did straightend it with a hammer on an wee anvil type, with out the pin though.

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    Still not straight a 100%
     
  2. HolsatiaRedneck

    HolsatiaRedneck

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    A bit worn out..

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    A wee go with the ole Pferd

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    Brake Cleaner

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  3. HolsatiaRedneck

    HolsatiaRedneck

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    Gonnae sand down those bits as soon as its dry.

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    Letting it dry for 16hours, the lid came in handy.

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    To be continued...
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2019
  4. Chaz

    Chaz

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    Hope the fix works for ya HolsatiaRedneck

    I'd think you were plunge cutting pretty hard, was the chain dull?
     
  5. HolsatiaRedneck

    HolsatiaRedneck

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    Thanks buddy, i hope it works out.
    Chain was fine, the operator was just the helmet that he is...
    You start the cut with an round about 45° angle, as soon as the chain has enuff grip you can slowly poke it through. (*Edit: Thats at least how i do it).
    But still hold a certain angle so you wont expierences any kick back from the saw which i ignored and just forced it.
    The saw has 6,7 Horsepower which was a bit too much for the Tensioner. :emb:

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    This is what the cut looks like, not the tree where it happend but youll get the idea i reckon.
    Works fine with forward leaning trees.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2019
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  6. Horkn

    Horkn

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    I've had really good "luck" with jb weld on all sorts of things, which this stuff looks exactly like.

    I'm sure it will work for you. If not, that can't be an expensive part can it? Solo saw?
     
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  7. HolsatiaRedneck

    HolsatiaRedneck

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    Haha yeah thats the stuff! If it aint working it was proably me doin it wrong, as i heard its working well good.
    The new spare part is around 40 bucks and i really wanted to try JB Weld (12bucks) and to be honest i was a bit too cheap payin some money for that crappy thing.
    But it will be no drama if i actually need to buy a new one.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2019
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  8. Screwloose

    Screwloose

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    Your right it sure does look like JB weld.......even the package says JB weld.....
    Sorry, just feel like being an azz today.
     
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  9. Chaz

    Chaz

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    Never seen any cuts like that, but my experience is rather limited.
     
  10. HolsatiaRedneck

    HolsatiaRedneck

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    No worries my friend, we cant know them all. And i would rather call myself an Amateur when it comes to felling.
    What the cut does is, it holds the tree (a forward leaning one) at the upper bit and with the last cut youll drop it.
    So you have the normal hinge, the middlecut bit and the upper holdingband (See picture above).
    Thats why the cut is ruffly translated as cut with holdingband :emb:

    The morra i'm putting the saw back together, i'll keep you folks updated.
     
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  11. Barcroftb

    Barcroftb

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    I've always loved jb weld. I remember my grandpa using it to fix a cracked head back in the late '80's. I found this jb weld video entertaining:



    Pretty tough stuff!
     
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  12. HolsatiaRedneck

    HolsatiaRedneck

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    Insane!!! Great Video, i put the part back in and gave it a little test run...
    Before the JB Weld therapy it would lose tension and eventually pop out.
    This time it didnt but i cant wait to saw some oak limbs on the farm from the last storm, putting it to the test.

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    Didnt sand it though, thinking every little bit of grip counts.

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    Letting her rooar through the neighborhood.

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    Brang her back in to have a wee look.

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    So far so good - to be continued...
     
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  13. MAF143

    MAF143

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    If that fails you can put the pin back in and use a punch and hammer on the back side of the pin to peen the material of the pin and plate to "press" or "clinch" them back together. Maybe even lightly touch them with a welder on the backside after peening to make a more permanent repair. I wouldn't worry about that rusting in there cuz there's alway a bunch of oil in that area anyway.

    I've had pretty good luck with JB Weld over the years, but I've also had a couple places that I thought it would work great, but failed miserably (on plastic stuff). I have used it successfully on a couple saws where the bar studs have backed out. Cleaned up the stud and the hole and put just a touch of JB in there and they've held ever since.
     
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  14. HolsatiaRedneck

    HolsatiaRedneck

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    Good call there buddy! I'll have it in mind, mibes ive should have done that straight away... :emb:

    Happends to the best of us.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2019
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  15. HolsatiaRedneck

    HolsatiaRedneck

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    OK, ive ended up buyin a spare part, i had a good look on the ole internet and found a place where you can order by partnumber...
    The actuall Part i tried to fix, well it worked but its just a matter of time until it would break again.
    I got to say im still impressed by JD Weld, ill try what MAF143 suggested with the old one just to see if it works well.
    Horkn youll be surprised how much one of them little buggers did cost me!


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