I thought I'd share a photo of a section of truss that was removed for routing a toilet drain pipe at our house. Obviously, this significantly affects the load carrying capacity of the truss. Luckily the builder went overboard on the truss size (height) and spacing else we'd likely have a bouncy floor there. I'd love to meet the plumber that did this. Its obvious to me that with a bit more effort and maybe a few more or different fittings this could have been avoided. If I had to bet I'd say he/she didn't have the needed fittings in their truck.
Don't know how much/little that will affect but..........like In the Pines says, Maybe after adding a 2X4 and the scabbing a piece of plywood along both sides of the truss, all will be well. Why the blueboard?
I've had to do that before. Plywood on both sides is what the inspector suggested. He didn't even seem interested that I would in fact do it.
You would need to check with the truss manufacturer, there are some allowable cuts, changes. I would say that one is not a big deal but yes he could of routed things a little different to hit the opening instead of cutting.
Yeah, except that there's a 4" pipe passing through where the plywood would best go. I've done what you're suggesting elsewhere in the house where we had some water damage.
If the trusses on either side are intact that's likely NBFD. Throw a diagonal behind the cut one and on the opposite side of the vertical 2x4 if you're gonna have the leg of a grand piano right above it or tiles there keep breaking.
Not sure how tight they were to the load limit on that truss span, but if they abided by the recent codes it's probably pretty conservative and won't create an issue. Floor trusses are typically designed to a deflection limit, so a failure by collapse is not typically the first problem you see. Like the guys said, have your plumber nail and glue 1/2" plywood on both sides of the pipe and both sides of the truss. It creates a box beam rather than a truss that way. You'll be good to go.
You should see the house I live in now if you think that is bad. We honestly have a rule, "No jumping". We have main floating beams. I would like to call them main support beams but there is nothing supporting them. It has stood for 100 years though!
I think it is its sheathing. At 3-1/2 inches thick now, imagine trying to buckle a sheet of plywood 3-1/2 inches thick and 16 feet tall. It is also a foursquare home, so it draws strength from its box-beam shape too. I do however have to put a new roof on it soon. :-(
