Will I need a taller chimney?

That is an option. I have a tee right above the damper on my chimney. It's colder today and it's burning much better. Still a bit of a slow start. Mild wind from the NW blowing down on us.
Burning cedar this morning will follow it up with pine. Post later on how it's doing.

 

Fired it up with cedar this morning and it seems much better.

 

It does start slow but you are right once it gets going when the wind and temps cooperate it's hard to slow down.

 

Most definitely Eric VW . Always do my homework I may get carried away with the air intake that is going to be trial and error i fear until i understand the stove and the different types of wood better.

 

Sounds much like what i do. Have to get some shorter wood. Most of what i have is 16-18" too long to put side ways. Cedar is the only kind i have shorter. Haven't had much trouble with smoking and what there is seems to stay inside the stove. Our actual chimney is only 8 feet double the other 7' are single stove pipe, T and damper inside. It is 2' above the ridge though but overall pretty short.

 

Friend of ours in Alaska thought a cozy 45 was pretty great. But he was young then it's been a while ago.

 

Oh no, my cats and I love it. My dogs give me dirty looks and go lying on the concrete. It's 74 in here now.

 

I'll happily trade you todays temps

Sounds like your fuel supply is on target. Have you pictured your vent system here yet? Just curious about having a T just above your damper. I thought this is a top vent stove?

 

What is your chimney made out of: I did not read that in scanning the previous replies?

If it is 100% single wall pipe, that might be your problem, especially if it exits the house via a wall then goes upwards. Even if it is over the ridge of the roof by two feet, being single wall pipe, the air will cool the flue temperatures quickly upon exiting the house. That makes for not only a poor drafting chimney, but a creosote-maker too.

Double wall is better.

Triple wall is even better.

Masonry is always best.

Even then masonry in a straight shot through the building and through the roof is best because it does not get cooled by outside air as quickly like an outside-wall chimney.

But even with a masonry chimney, it takes a bit to get it drafting sometimes. That is because it takes a bit to warm up all that masonry. I do not have this on my new house, but on my old house I would sometimes have to take a wadded up newspaper and light it, then hold it right up to the chimney pipe to help send the heat upward and get the stove to initially draw. Think of it as priming the chimney with a little heat. Heat rises, then it draws in the cool air and soon there is a semi-siphon going, and it is a trick that can light a poor drafting chimney.

 

I gotta disagree here...insulated double wall is the gold standard for wood stove chimneys these days...triple wall would be next, then masonry last. Masonry could be perfectly fine if it is an interior chimney...and built to modern NFPA standards, which very few actually are.

 

Nope: masonry gets warmed up, and it holds the heat better and thus drafts better. It also stands up to wind better, and ice sliding off a roof cannot damage a masonry chimney unlike a steel chimney. In comparison, a steel chimney that is held together with only a few screws through ultra-thin steel could not POSSIBLY be better than masonry one.

Stainless steel chimneys are also rated at 1000 degrees continuously, which is great except that chimney fires can exceed 2000 degrees. You can do the math on that, or just hold your hand on a stainless steel chimney while a fire is going (you can't) and then hold your hand on the side of a masonry chimney. (you can)

Stating that "and built to modern NFPA standards, which very few actually are", makes it a very difficult point to argue against. It is always hard to prove a negative. However, what you state is like saying a car is safer in a crash than a pickup if a pick up truck has a broken frame. Of course it is, but only if you compare an inferior designed product to something else. Maybe a lot of chimneys are not built right, but there is no reason they should be...block then liner, even frugal ole me builds a masonry chimney using those materials.

I have had stainless chimneys, and they are nice; easy to sweep compared to that of a masonry..I will give them that, but honestly, not that much easier.

Time wise stainless is faster to install because with masonry you can only go up so many blocks before the weight squats out the mortar, but it still lays up pretty fast, and considering once it is up, it will stand for 80 years or more, makes a few days work seem minor. But that relates to cost too. I can fully see spending less money on something that works, but a person cannot say that it is better. That is just marketing spin.

I would never tell anyone to tear down their stainless steel chimney and put up a masonry one, but if they had the means to do that, it would draft considerably better.

 

Maybe on a fireplace...not on modern efficient stoves! They are very much inferior on a modern firebox, especially exterior.

If you are mounting your class A chimney with "a few screws through ultra thin steel, you're doing it wrong...no screws go into the pipe...at least on the ones I've put up...I guess that's not saying there's not some cracker jack brand out there that does it that way.

Yes, 1000* continuous, and 2100* peak...that is the standard for class A chimney. 2100* in a masonry chimney usually means house fire...unless you have one that was actually built with proper CTC...then your house may survive to have a stainless liner
put in the masonry chimney.
As far as putting your hand on a class A chimney...yup, done it many times, its usually stone cold, if the stove is firing hard it may be warm...that's warm, not hot.

Me either.​

Nope...that's one of a properly sized class A chimney advantages...superior drafting. And they stay warmer, so they maintain draft longer into the burn cycle, and stay cleaner too.

 

I've got both.. The masonry is a 2 separate flus both 11 by 7 clay, surrounded by cinder blocks and then brick faced.. The other 6 inch class a. The masonry is 38 feet tall class a is 18 feet. Draft was measured in June 4 years ago IIRC class a 27 Pascal, masonry 18 Pascal.. So I'm with @brendatomu on this one.

 

An insulated steel chimney is going to draft better and quicker. Better yet if it runs up through the center of the house to shield it from the cold.