Englander NC30 - Alcove Install

The brick is considered non-combustible, but there are still clearances required with that depending on what's behind it (usually combustibles).

Not quite sure what angle I'm looking at there.

 

Attached image with labels to help you understand the angle.

 

Looking at the installation manual, if I am using double wall stove pipe, I can have the rear of the stove 5" from the rear-wall. The AC-16 blower that comes with adds 7", and I will use that for the first year at least (and then maybe upgrade to some stuff I've seen on this forum for next year). So, the rear will have to be at least 7 " from the rear wall (which will be lined with brick). Things will get a little tight as the stove pipe passes between the rear-wall and the back of the mantle as pictured. If necessary, I can probably cut a large notch out of the rear of the mantle to make sure there is plenty of clearance. This afternoon, I will probably trying to get up in the there to take some measurements.

 

Ok, that's what I thought. It's all about CTC. Don't want anyone burning down their house (yours is very nice looking).
I'd still advocate calling ESW.
One other thing......have you checked with your ins. co.? Some really don't like wood burning appliances, and some will just add a surcharge onto the policy (I think mine's another $100/year). If the house goes up in flames and the stove install is determined as the cause, that would be a problem if they aren't made aware.
Do you plan to do this rework yourself, or hire a mason? Mason would be another good source of knowledge.

 

You typed faster than I did. I'll presume no mason.

 

I have talked to my insurance company. Will cost an extra $50/yr in premiums. They gave me a sheet to fill out by the installer, and want to see a few pictures. It will be installed by a professional HVAC specialist who is a friend of mine. He isn't a mason or anything, but he is really good at what he does, and he is going to look it over with me this afternoon and take some measurements before I pull the trigger on purchasing the stove.

 

Correct, no mason. But my friend does HVAC installation for a living, not specifically wood stoves, but I think between his experience and my experience as an engineer we can make this work. I have spent a lot of time researching stoves, and reading the forums, and I think we can do this in a safe manner. I will make sure to get it professionally inspected and have my insurance co. sign off on it before lighting the first fire.

 

Welcome to the club jjspierx!

 

Thank you so much. Would you mind measuring both heights, the rear-upper deck and front lower-deck? I am planning on using the legs if possible, but that will be dependent on the measurements of the pedestal vs. legs.

 

It comes with the pedestal attached. Changing to legs is a slightly tight fit getting hands and wrench to work, but quite doable with some patience.

 

I've got 26 5/8 front deck and 27 7/8 for the rear deck for pedestal heights, the pedestal is shorter than the legs by about 1.5 inches.

 

Does that "fireplace" even have a foundation or an ash pit ?
If the brick hearth is just a row of bricks on top of a subfloor you have no hearth heat protection.

 

I haven't seen any great sales on the NC30 in a couple years now, at least. Sometimes you can find "seconds" (nothing wrong with 'em really) at AM FM energy TIMBER RIDGE - Brand New Factory Seconds or Manufacturer Refurbished S
The NC30 has pretty high CTC requirements...IMO your plans for this install are way too close to be safe. And as papadave has mentioned...a layer of bricks in between the stove and the combustible really doesn't do much to reduce the clearances...because they are poor insulators, more conductive, so they don't really count, you still need the clearance they list for a standard install. And I believe your mantel is going to be way too close also. You really should call their tech line, they are usually very helpful.
If you have completely set your mind on the alcove install, you may want to consider a different model with better specs for CTC...

 

The sale prices are usually at the end of burn season when stores need room for spring & summer inventory.

 

Thanks for all of the help/advice guys. This has been really helpful. I am strongly considering going vertical through the 2nd floor of our house, instead of through the wall outside the house. I've attached a mostly to scale mock-up of what it would look like.

- On the first floor, all the piping will be single wall stove pipe except where the pipe passes behind the mantle, I would use double wall.
- There would be 2X 30 deg elbows on the first floor, above the mantle, to make a ~20" horizontal offset to go around the window on the 2nd floor
- The 2nd floor would be all Class A Chimney Pipe, through the attic, and out the roof
- There will be all new brick lining behind the stove, and on the sides
- Above the stove I would have a block-off plate fabricated to keep heat from escaping into the area above it
- Above the block-off plate, the entire rest of the area on the first floor would be lined with cement board

Opinions on this general plan? It seems to me this would be cheaper, easier to do (than going outside), and make for a better draft (no 90 degree, plus a Tee). The only downside is losing a bit of space in the bedroom on the 2nd floor, but it would be much nicer looking not having the external S.S. chimney, and having to go through the soffit.

 

The firebox of the fireplace has brick that goes down several feet into the basement. However, the hearth in front (the dark colored brick) is a single layer cut into the subfloor. Any idea of what I would need to do to make this possible?

 

likely would need 1" of Micore board to make specs for the NC30 ( think the requirement is 2.5R) 1" of Micore would yield 2.18R plus what ever over the top of it.

 

Any penetration requires Class A pipe. So, you need clearances, support and the correct pipe (Class A) through the ceiling into the 2nd floor, then everything from there to the cap is also Class A.
As I mentioned earlier, you need 16" in front of the stove on the hearth and the appropriate R-value material under the stove.

This is from the manual (you're a little high on the R-value)...........
"After examining the area you plan to
place your stove and determining it requires a
board, the next step is to select the proper size. The stove you choose will determine the size
board that is required. The approved protector board should be large enough to provide a
minimum of eight inches (8”) behind the unit, eight inches (8”) on both sides and sixteen inches
(16”) in the front where the door is located. *NOTE: For Canada, 450 mm is required in front and
200 mm on the sides and back. The protection must have an R-value of 1.5 (English units) or
equivalent (See “Installation on a Combustible Floor”). This stove requires a minimum 39.0” x
52.5” floor protection."