I usually cut mostly firewood but I'm in the market for a Stihl MS660 with a 36" bar right now to handle some of the big stuff that is being dumped at my wood yard. I think I would like to make a couple small table tops to start out with. I have some white oak 20"-30" in diameter that may be worth milling. I see Granburg Mills and a few others guys are using. I'm not sure which one would be best for my application. I was thinking about using ripping chain for milling, looks like I can buy a roll and make a few chains.
I cannot help you with a brand as the chainsaw sawmill I have was made from plans I got online from ProCut. If you have welding skills, or lack the time or ambition to do that, you could get the plans and have an area metal shop make it for you. But either way, with chainsaw milling, you have to have ripping chain.
I have an Alaskan and like it very much. It's very light and easy to use and adjust. You'll loose about 4-5" of bar length with the clamps. Also, I just use full skip, full chisel chain and have great results doing so. Square filed cuts and lasts best but if you can't, round at about 10 degrees works well. This pic shows the finish. One thing I would also recommend, if you do go with the Granberg, get the newer updated brackets that are cut from billet. This is where I bought mine: G778-48 Alaskan MK IV Chain Saw Mill, G778-48 48in Granberg Portable Chain Saw Mill, Made in the U.S.A.
I have yet to understand the benefit of ripping chain. I chisel grind or chisel file my chains for ripping and they cut great. There are 2 major challenges with chainsaw milling . 1 is keeping subsequent cuts flat at beginning and end. They tend to get a wave from the mill only being supported on the front rail then the back rail of the mill. The 2nd is the bar tip side of the mill riding up so that the slab isn't the same thickness across its width. . The best way I've found to Not get ( The Wave) #1, is to always mill with a slabbing rail or plank that extends. More than 1 foot from each end of the log being milled. The best way I've found to avoid #2 ( Thick and Thin) is to run a double ended bar with 2 of the same powerheads. Baring having 2 powerheads, I hang a heavy sledgehammer head on the tip side of the mill. I'm of the opinion that the whole "ripping chain" = chipper chain , is it's more forgiving of filing errors . However, it doesn't cut as fast as chisel chain and that drives me nuts. I recommend that you practice on some logs that are softer and easier cutting. And smaller diameter. With chainsaw milling , Practice makes Perfect !
My mill is a Granberg that I've had for more than 20 years. I need to replace it as 1 year winter came before I got the mill put away for the winter. Enough rain water had got into the stand tubes and the frozen water swelled the square tubing . somewhat ruining them. Its best to store your mill upside down. And clean out the stand pipes. Plenty of dry saw dust collects in them , it attracts moisture. The brackets WW showed are also a Great upgrade!! Worth every penny!
I was probably doing something wrong then. You have WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY more experience then I do running a chainsaw mill. Ripping chain honestly worked a lot better for me, but I am thinking my choice of chain type, or how I was sharpening it must have been why ripping chain must have worked so much better. Equally...I am in NO WAY saying you are doing anything wrong, but one thing I actually enjoyed about the chainsaw mill was how flat (no waves) the chainsaw mill made the lumber in comparison to bandsaw mills. Right now I am sawing half-dried White Pine and Spruce...it does not matter how much tension or how sharp the bandsaw blades are in that stuff, there is some inevitable waves in the bigger knots.
