Would you replace this Harman Burn pot?

Hello

I noticed that when I was cleaning the P61a Burn pot the other day that the speed bump carbon ash deposit had not lift than usual. After further examination I found the metal pushed up and the holes were torn! The stove works fine but this does not look right!
I have never seen anything like this before! Have you??
So would you replace it or try to fix it. It seems hard to fix due to the curvature.

I threw in another used pot with a new burn pot gasket that is in good shape in the mean time.

Pics 1-4 Broken Harman Burn Pot
Pics 5-6 Good used burn pot.

 

Weird - never seen that before (KOW - don't want to see it on mine). I would go used if available too.

 

The igniter is directly underneath that area of the burn pot(i think). Heard that happened to someone due to the igniter staying "on" due to a faulty control board.

 

Good info
Did the Igniter light stay on? If not how do you know the Igniter is still on?

 

Not sure if the Light stayed on. It wasn't me, just remember reading it somewhere. Think it was a shorted out Triac on the control board that held the igniter on.

 

Slap an amp clamp on it and see if it's still drawing power when it shouldn't be

 

Yikes, never saw anything like that before. How old is that stove that cracked burn pot came out of? Is it your own stove? I would imagine if the igniter was stuck on permanently (in any stove), that would have a pretty noticeable impact on the electric bill!

 

i would feel under the burnpot when the stove is off to see if it's Hot from the ignitor.
although not sure if it would still be heating [malfunction wise] if the stove knob is off.

 

damm.... i have the same stove.
is it hard to replace?

 

No Not to hard to replace
1. Remove bottom back left side panel and cut wire tie to uncoil Igniter wires
2. Open ash pan door and pull out ash pan and remove Igniter cradle bolts.
3. Pull out Igniter until you see the clips and unclip Igniter and remove Igniter & cradle from stove
4. Remove flame guide on top of burnPot and 4 burnpot nuts and remove burnPot and scrape off gasket on stove.
Install new burnPot gasket and reverse steps above!

EasyPeasy

 

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It is my stove and is pretty old, about 15 years old. I do not think the Igniter is stuck on now since I replaced the circuit board about 4 years ago but I will check when I have a chance.

 

Yea, needs replacing. Often the bubble is from the igniter staying on....usually the triac on the board fused into "on" position....this usually happens when someone shorts out the igniter (usually a burned or pinched wire)…...as said above, put a hook meter on one wire and see if its drawing current once the fire is lit and burning for a bit....and yes, the light can be off but the igniter still be on in such cases.

 

Hello
Did a test with the amp clamp
The exhaust blower read approx 1.3 amps which is about right.
The Igniter wires, I did have the clamp around the 2 wires behind the bundle read at most 0.2 amps.
Therefore is that safe to say the Igniter is not on constantly?
Pic 1 - Exhaust Blower amp Reading
Pic 2 - Igniter wires amp reading

 

You have to put the clamp on just 1 wire at a time. It reads the magnetic field generated by current flowing through a wire. If you have it on both wires to the igniter you will have current moving to the ignitor and back which will cancel out.

 

Thank - you I will try that!

 

Hello
Ok, here is the bench test.
E=IR
I=E/R
I=117 VAC / 50 Ohms
I=2.44 Amps
Or
P=IxV
I=P/V
I=300 Watts / 117 VAC
I=2.56 Amps

Pic 1
Harman Igniter- OFF
0.010 Amps
Pic 2
Harman Igniter- ON
2.37 Amps
Looks correct from Ohm’s Law above

Now I can check the stove

 

Looks like the board *might* be ok........