I have a small on demand electric water heater. It's wired up with 6 gauge and on a 2 pole/60 amp breaker. It's crapping out on me. I am just going to go with a regular 40 gallon electric. The plumbing is no big deal. The wiring is no big deal either as long as I know a couple of things. Can i use the 6 gauge wire and just change the breaker to a 2 pole/30? I am pretty sure I can. I believe the new units call for 12 or 10 gauge. I see no reason to fish a new line when I already have the 6 gauge. I figure that I need to put the 6 gauge and the 10 gauge in the box and wire nut them & tape them before running power to the new heater. Is it code/okay to connect stranded with solid wire (6 gauge with 10/12 gauge)? I am really hoping that I can just swap the breaker and use my existing 6 gauge. ...and no LP is not an option, Larger on demand is not anything I want, and I know that I need to run the blow off valve down and out. I should also say that I have hard water. I plan on buying and extra lower heating element and anodized rod when I get the heater. Also will flush it every two months, just not sure if I should use CLR or if I can get away with a gallon of white vinegar. I know this is a lot in the post...thank you all in advance.
You can use the 6 ga. if you downsize the breaker. I know of no reason you can't put stranded and solid together...I'd probably tend to want to use a split bolt to do it though. Once you get that taped up it isn't the most compact connection, but if you have the room to pull it off, it will be a proper connection. Those on demand units are bad news with hard water.
I didn't thing of the Split Bolt. I have plenty of room for the connection, I brought the 6 gauge through the wall into a 3x6 inch box that is about 2.5 inches deep. Taping the split bolt will be enough protection inside a metal box? ....of course I will go a bit over kill on the tape and be gentle placing the wires back in the box.
Should be fine if you tape things up like I do... You could give it a layer or two of friction tape under the electrical tape if you want to be sure.
We have hard water also shack and don't see any reason that vinegar wouldn't work. Especially if you plan to flush every couple of months.
I will try a gallon of vinegar a few times and see how it works. I hate using CLR or Lime Away, and bleach for that matter...horrible for the septic system. Although with a flush it's a garden hose to the drive way and will kill weeds. Would be nice to be able to put some baking soda in when I flush it out...that would really help it out... thinking I might put in a T for the fill with a ball valve going in to the tank and a stub up with another ball valve...all 3/4, then I can flush/drain then put the vinegar in easier and maybe some baking soda...should be easier that way...I think it will work.
2 things. 1) the breaker is meant to protect the wire so you are fine 2) just in case you did not know, you must turn off the power when draining and DO NOT turn it back on until WH is completely full. The elements will explode if not. Also because of recovery time on a electric wh, you might want to go slightly larger and if you like baths go to an 80 you will appreciate it.
I upgraded to the AO Smith electric hybrid water heater this summer, and I'm really happy with it. Depending on how much hot water you and your household use it can save you a lot of money in the long run. It's cut about $50 per month off the bill, with 4 people needing hot water. I estimate that I'll have made up for the cost difference in 10 months. The other bonus is a dryer basement-
You can certainly nut solid to stranded. It happens at every light fixture. I wouldn’t use split bolts but the proper wire nut. I installed a 40 gallon electric water heater a few years ago and it is plenty. Family of 4 with teenage girls. Modern water fixtures and appliances really use so much less water. We don’t fill bathtubs ever.
electrical tape is not sufficient to "insulate" those split bolts! You would need friction tape. friction tape is UL rated for electrical splices. It's made with rubber coated cloth. If you get the right size wire nuts you'll be fine.
I do know about turning the breaker off when draining...heard horror stories from some folks about that too. A 40 gal is more than enough for me...95% of the time it's just me and I only have a walk in shower / no tub. Down the road I might even set it up with a timer, but my electric bill is so small I am not expecting much of a change in things. Actually looking forward to this project in the next week or so.
Okay, makes sense...I will check at the supply house for the size I need in wire nuts. I am sure I will put a couple of wraps of electrical tape on them as well. Thanks
Yeah but those light aren't pulling 30A either! For this situation, I personally would still go split bolt. Its gonna be fiddly to get a proper connection with a wire nut on a 6ga stranded and a 10ga solid wire...and that's my issue with using the wire nut, its just gonna be a little tough to get a good solid connection on both wires (BTDT, many times...and it can be done, just PITA, especially for Joe DIY who's not familiar...) I deal with high amperage connections all the time...and split bolts seldom fail...but its not uncommon to find burnt up wire nuts. As far as the tape/insulation...whenever you tape a split bolt normally you wrap it with 3 layers, especially in a motor or in an industrial environment where there is plenty of vibration (and the wires are likely carrying 480V 3PH too) But like I said, me personally, I'd have no problem using only electrical tape on this...that said, I also would have zero problem with anyone wanting to do more than that. I like the newer glass cloth tape better than the old cambric tape for the 1st layer. #2 layer is self fusing rubber tape. Last layer is standard vinyl electrical tape.
I’ve never actually used one but people seem to love those Polaris connectors for joining larger wires. There are a few options for splices at the hardware store. Little kits that include heat shrink and everything. You could also put a disconnect on the wall that has terminals for the wires. 6 gauge in and 10 gauge whip to the tank. Discos are really cheap and give you a visible safety disconnect.
I didn't think of a disconnect...never did one before, but they look pretty simple...easy to wire I believe and .... maybe safer in terms of a quality connection???
Mount it to the wall, get a couple box connectors for the wires, strip the wires, insert wires and tighten the set screws, done.
Just to make sure it is understood, the breaker must be sized for the lightest wire in the circuit. If you are connecting the 6 gauge directly to the 10 gauge you must size the breaker to the 10 gauge. KaptJaq
Make sure the box is grounded, and thats why we use metal boxes, it creates a big enough short to trip the breaker in the event of a failed connection.
