Stovepipe configuration

I'm trying to replace the stove pictured below with minimal modification to the surrounding hearth, chimney, flue, etc. Struck out on BK stoves, because they're top vent only and have a minimum stovepipe vertical rise before an elbow that won't fit here.

I'd been focusing on a Woodstock Ideal Steel, but the support person I'd been talking to said that the only way to make the stovepipe connections fit is to trim a slip section of pipe. I'd prefer not to have to do that, so I inquired whether an Absolute Steele High Style with rear vent might work better with unmodified parts. Response was that it "may be able to be worked out with some adjustable elbows off the back to mate up to your thimble".

I'd like to get some more certainty on this before ordering the stove. The center of my thimble is currently about 42.5" high, and the centerline of the rear exit on the High Style is 40 5/8". The rear of the stove would sit somewhere between 6" - 10" from the wall. Is there going to be an easy way to vent (nearly) straight back with the ~2" offset between the stove exit and thimble heights? And is it easy enough to determine the exact distance from the wall at the time of install, using adjustable parts to account for the several inch range within which it might fall?

Thanks!

 

A single-wall 45-degree elbow is quite adjustable, but it can't be shortened easily. That said, you can get probably 1" of offset over 9-10". I don't think you can get 2" over that same distance. Buy a cheap single-wall 45 and play with it. This would be a nice application for something flexible, like chimney liner.

 

Offset Insert Adaptor - 6" 304 Stainless Steel ( 0"-4" offset)

 

I agree with EVW - wouldn't another layer of brick and mortar be just about the two inches (roughly) you need? Appearance would be nearly identical, and you wouldn't need to do any redneck engineering to get there. Not that an adapter or a 45 is redneck, but being able to go straight off the back of the stove would seem to be advantageous for simplicity's sake.

 

Well, to be fair, let's review the advice..

Hmm.. I thought putting things up on blocks was one of the defining features of "redneck engineerin".

 

Ok, you got me!

I built a saw buck out of old stairs and second generation fence posts the other night.. I've used zip ties to affix undercarriage bumper plastic on my commuter car.. And to pass inspection, I've used spray foam and metal tape to fake up rocker panels on one of the trucks for three years running. I won't discuss how many fans I've rewired with old extention cord stock.. Can't help it, too cheap! Lol

 

Another layer of brick sounds like it would put the stove at the right height, but I know as little about masonry as I do about stovepipes. So I'd need to hire somebody for that, which is going to add time and expense to the project. On top of that, should I be worried that the extra weight of a second layer of brick, in addition to the extra weight of a larger stove, is going to be too much for for the framing or subfloor supporting the hearth? Will this extra masonry work require a building permit/inspection?
If it were as simple as just placing a 2-1/2" thick brick under each foot without any mortar (now that sounds like some redneck engineering! ), I'd agree that raising the hearth is the simplest solution. Properly laying a full layer of brick under the stove, I'm not so sure. That's why I was asking whether there's a simple method of connecting stovepipe to accommodate a small offset over a short span. Not knowing much about stovepipe, I thought maybe there was flexible stovepipe like there is for chimney liner, or maybe there's a simple way to do it with a couple of adjustable elbow pieces. The Woodstock guy suggested the latter might be possible, but I'd want a more confident answer before buying a stove that relies on this approach.

 

I am not pointing fingers here, have done many quick fixes myself.

Zip ties and duct tape will always be in abundance in this household.


Just having some fun with a certain someone.

 

Ok, in all seriousness, I think we're overlooking KaptJaq suggestion above.

It seems that would fullfil the required conditions.

 

Have to admit, did not take the time to look at the price tag on that piece of kit.

Still would be easier and cheaper than redoing hearth.

But, yes, pricey.

 

There are others out there that are less expensive, this was just one I was familiar with.

If it was my install I would probably see what I could do with an adjustable elbow or a piece of flexible flue liner. All the other requirements/clearances would guide which way I would go...

KaptJaq

 

That's what I'd do...could shave it down a bit with a cheap diamond blade on the 4" grinder if the brick(s) are a hair too high. Could also get one of those 16" (or whatever they are) patio /paver blocks, cut it into 1/4's...BAM! one piece for each leg I think those are often ~2" thick...might even be able to find some "fancy" lookin ones too

 

My .02 is this looks impossible to clean.....

 

Good point

 

I would raise the stove with bricks or pavers if they get you to the height you need. You can always shim up a bit with fender washers under the legs if you are a little short. Another option to get the perfect height is to build a form the height that you need then pour it with concrete, heck dye the concrete if you want to match things better...this will give you the custom height you need if you can't do it easy with stock brick.

 

I recall seeing this on their webpage years ago. Maybe they can help you.

Custom Chimney Components - Made to Order Chimney Parts